Lands End to John O’groats, The Long Walk.
DRAFT
Welcome to the War Memorial page, to which Andrew has been raising money for..
Following 25 years in local government I decided it was time for a change. The opportunity for an adventure had arrived. Madness, motivation and dogged determination was to push me forward, for the hottest summer since records began. This was not going to be the easiest route, but I decided I was to join up the national trails, for a more remote and picturesque adventure.
This is a day by day diary of “walking days” taking some zero days for recovery and stops to explore this wonderful country. I camped most days and occasionally stayed in hotels to recharge batteries.
I hope you will enjoy my wit and black humor, as well as my appreciation of wildlife.
I posted the diary everyday on Face Book and collected a large number of followers, the fb page has even more photos. “Andrew Beal LEJOG”
The route I took covered the North Coastal path, Exmoor, the Mendip’s, the Quantock’s, the Severn Bridge to Offas Dike to Nighton. Craven Arms to Iron Bridge. Uttoxeter to Edale and the Pennine Way. The Scottish National trail, Rob Roy Way to the Cairngorms. Avimore via the Lairig Ghru. Newtonmore to Fort Agustus. The Great Glen Way to Inverness. The John O’groats Trail.
88 days of Walking and wild camping. Blessed with good weather.
Tics, Horse flies and sunburn.
Day 1. Baptism.
An early start, just 12 miles to slowly break me in. Some stunning scenery. Bluebells, foxgloves, primroses. Red-billed Chough. (A raven like bird with a red beak and very bizarre behaviour.. ) The beaches and cliffs were stunning. Loads of disused tin mines.. a blue sky day. Oh yes snakes..(adders). The weather was about 20 degrees with a stiff breeze. This was a baptism of fire towards the end of the day, with very rough terrane.
Day 2. Slow.
Another 12 miles and arrived at St. Ives. Coves and stunning paths, but very slow going, ups and downs, climbing over boulders. I arrived at St.Ives and ate my first ice cream (Rum & Raisin) and it was strange to be surrounded by thousands of people after being out in the wild. The weather is still great!. I witnessed seagulls trying to mug the tourists, chips, pasties and ice creams, no one was safe!.
Day 3. Pasties
St. Ives to Portreath. OMG stunning and easy going, a handful of steep ups and downs a little road walking at the start, beaches then flat clifftop walks.
Recommend Philps pasties on route!
Day 4.
A wet start, then sun later in the day. 30+mph northerly winds made the day interesting. More flats and little ups and downs making good progress. Made it to Perranporth and enjoyed the sun.
Day 5. Mugged!.
The heavens opened so I took a zero day, then cracked on the next day reaching my old haunt for my surfing days in Newquay ( I used to visit 5 times a year, this is my first visit without a surfboard)
This was a very bad experience, I was mugged in the street outside Fat Willies surfshop.! £3.50 Cornish ice-cream raspberry ripple, I really needed it after all those miles. One lick as I crossed the road, I was looking for somewhere to eat this treat! NO! a flipping SEAGULL knocked it out of my cone while another downed it in one! Ahhhhhhhh!
Sandunes and cliffs and a river crossing into Newquay. The place was packed with people.
I lost my brother to cancer a few years ago and we had amazing surfing holidays on Fistral beach. I have always carried a small amount of his ashes with me on my many hikes, today I donated a small amount to the beautiful white sand, to the place he loved.
Day 6. The seed.
Newquay to Padstow. Rain and drizzle on and off. Stunning coves, a route I had taken before in my surfing days, when the surf was flat. This had set the seed for adventure. Padstow was rammed with people. Chips and yes a whole ice cream!
Day 7.
Padstow to Trebarwith Strand. More of the same, up and downs, heavy going with slow progress. A cheat this morning with the ferry from Padstow to Rock ( full of toffs) weather held until PM so more of the same tomorrow.
Day 8. Rain wind, rain wind, climb up, climb down.. passed the tourist town of Tintagal.
Then onto a sheltered spot on the cliff tops for a wet, sideways rain, 25+mph winds and some stinking goats. This was a wild camp high on the clifftops, a wet bumpy night, with little sleep.
I said goodbye to Lynn(Wife) who has supported me all week, we stayed in some nice hotels and hot baths most nights. My feet had many hotspots, but as yet no real blisters.
Now the fun begins!
Day 9. A long walk to Bude. Rain, wind but some lovely bays and coves. Many ups and downs, which slows things up. I could do more miles on the flat, to describe it, it is like climbing Scaffel pike twice a day. Type 2 fun…… Lol.
Seals and a glimpse of a basking shark. It turned into a very long day. My feet were on fire with hot spots, I booked myself into a travel lodge. This wasn’t the plan, but I decided that if I was going to do this, I needed a slow start to get my body use to the trail. The coastal path was definitely not the easy route.
Day 10. Sun burn.
Bude to Stoke (Devon) a grey start, then hot as hell. Glorious views. Sunburn to the backs of my legs. (Fool!) I only put cream on my knees. I failed to put suntan lotion on my calf muscles and paid the price with the sun behind me!. A nice quiet campsite, shattered. A really long day with many ups and downs, zig zag paths and very steep sections. . I put my tent up, had a shower and crashed, not even wanting to eat much. It had been in the low 30’s and even over night it still stayed warm. I had also ran out of water that afternoon too .
Day 11. Tics.
I left early in the morning for some road walking (lots of back roads with grass in the middle of the road, a bit like Suffolk.) I was cutting off the headland, then back onto the coastal path. Many hill climbs (cliffs) then onto Clovelly the south Devon tourist trap. I went to the visitors centre at the top (a giant car park and cafe) the centre is specially designed for lazy people and the elderly like myself, who can’t make it down the steep cobbled high street to the quay. So I filled my face at the cafe and plugged my phone in. The sun was out but spent most of the day in the wooded cliff paths that go on for miles (couldn’t even see the sea!) hiked on to Peppercomb bay and found a nice wild camp spot.. The word for today was “HOT..” I found 3 tics on me, which was a little alarming!
Day 12. I have finally got a blister, this is due to the last and long section of tarmac and concrete. A morning of climbs and descents, I was dripping in sweat on my climb from my beautiful camp spot. The temperature is rising, my 30lb pack is crushing me in the heat!.
I walked through Westwood Hoo to see hundreds surfing!. Then Bideford, an egg roll on a cafe ship and onto Barnstaple and a hotel for the night.
Another tic on the journey!!! (Blood sucking insects)
Lucky it had climbed up my leg through layers of insecticide, latched on and died ( probably didn’t like my blood group) a long hot bath, washed my socks and smalls in the sink and trashed my hotel room with wet tents and a disinbowled rucksack.
Day 13. Blimey it’s hot. Luckily my route takes me in land onto the Tarka trail down leafy lanes and riverbanks. More birdsong away from the coast and good shade.
A highlight today was a lane of wild garlic, the spell was sublime ..
Stopped hiking early as the next section is wild and water is hard to get. I found a quiet campsite and a little shade.
Day 14. Heat.
Hells bells 29° I set off at 06:00hrs and began my trek to Exmoor. It was hot early, with a steep climb back onto the Tarka trail.
Stunning leafy lanes, then onto the trail that follows the rivers with steep sided valleys. Endless ferns and wild flowers. Some nice churches too. After realising this morning I had used the last teabag in my pack and no chance of a resupply for 3 days, I was a little hacked off. Lucky for me visiting churches, they have tea and coffee within!, kettles and water too!.
I took a 2 hour break at midday hiding under trees from the heat, a little nap too..
Then the long climb up onto Exmoor for a wild camp under the stars. 16miles of heat..
Day 15. 30° too damn hot!
I slept in my bivvy bag (British Army Gortex bag) , as I only made it to the edge of the moors (Exmoor). The farmers were very busy in the surrounding fields, so no tent for me. A warm night under the stars. Plenty of wildlife too owls, eagles and song birds. Even a cuckoo who started at 11:30pm. I awoke in the night to charging horse, but thought I dreamt it. The stars were great, I even saw a shooting star so thanks Stephen Beal RIP.
I awoke at 04:30hrs to skylarks and decided to crack on before the heat, by 09:00 it was 20°+.
The horses I heard in the night, I realised were Exmoor ponies in the field next door.
I hiked an hour then made breakfast. The heat was wearing. I had plenty of water and streams to filter.
The moors were great, and was able to make good headway (it hadn’t rained for a while so not too boggy ) it was mainly Ridgway walking, I did take a shortcut but regretted it ending up to my knees in slime and bog.
The heat was bad, I chugged my way through 3 litres of water by 13:00hrs, it was now over 30°. There was no shade on the moors, so decided to call it a day at mile 16 and found a beautiful campsite for a shower and a good de-ticing.. vile creatures.
The tracks were good and it often struck me these were thousands of years old, some very straight maybe Roman. But most older.
In short this day was far too hot to walk in. The next day was to be 27° with no water sources for 12 miles. Plus a 2 mile 20% hill climb back to the trail head. So a zero day for me ! Give my feet a rest..
Thank you all for following me and I have not yet pushed the giving page, but thank you for all who have so far, I am very touched. The camp site has been fantastic, good showers and a laundry room too. The owner showed me a special cuboard for hikers, with food and cans of drink, with an honesty pot. The site is remote, so this was a lucky find. Westermill Farm Campsite
Day 16. This is England.
An early start (05:00) hiked up a 20% hill road, 2 miles back to the trail head. An absolute killer at 5 in the morning, the temperature was reaching 20, by 08:00hrs
Another 28° hot day to come. Hiked along some lovely moorland and a slow climb to Dunkerry hill then back down through some lovely villages.
This is England!. Cricket pavilions and flag poles, Union flags, no St. George’s to be seen ( this flag should only be flown on Saints day or from church towers).
Ancient lanes again and then an extremely steep climb back onto a Ridgway and my first glimpse of Wales. Then a long descent to the medieval castle town Dunster.. THIS IS ENGLAND! for me a lovely B&B amongst a small medieval castle town with thatched cottages and babbling brooks.
Day 17. I spent the night in Exmoor House Dunster B&B. A brilliant owner who had a pot of tea and cake, ready for me on arrival, offered laundry and took an Amazon parcel in for me too. A lovely place and I would highly recommend anyone to stay. There was a pub next door, so tea was sorted! .Dunster is a wonderful stop. In the morning I was presented with a pack lunch, which made my day.
A climb out of Dunster with great views of the castle and more beautiful cottages.
The day was spent crossing fields of barley and wheat, green lanes and picturesque villages.
At the end of the day a long hard slog up onto the Quantock hills for a wild camp.
I am sitting here looking out to Wales, the Bristol channel and an out of place Hinckley point nuclear reactor. To the south I can just make out Gastonbury tour, with a good sunset to come. I was warned by a local not to go in the long grass and heather, because of tics which has been bad in this area. I took his advice, so all good.
Day 18. A pleasant night on top of the Quantock hills, with little wind. I drifted off to sleep with the sound of skylarks, cuckoos and a night jars.
I was up early to witness the sun bursting over the ridges, porridge then the easy slow ups and downs of the Quantock ridge. Then the slow decent through fields, lanes and ancient paths back down to the flat of the Bridgwater plain.
A very long forest walk too, nearly 3 miles of valley woodland along the Macmillan Way.
I arrived in the heat again, had a jacket potato in a cafe and crashed exhausted. Only 16miles but the humidity was very high.. now the weather is set to change.
Day 19. Bridgewater to Brean.
As you may have seen on the FB real this one of the first days on the total flat, no hills, mountains or valleys to climb. The weather held off from rain (but tomorrow and all week will) great progress was made, 22 miles. Riverbanks and endless sands.
The day started early, I stayed at the Mercure hotel, on a cheap deal, but when they found out what I was doing they upgraded me to a massive room with a balcony!. Free breakfast!(I left at o5:00hrs so skipped it.)
A long hike along river banks and met a dog walker who asked what I was doing and why, then when I spoke of the IWMP he promptly gave me some money, which I was rather taken aback by. I am very touched by peoples generosity.
My first case of being followed by a young bullocks, (for quite a way). I stopped they stopped, I speeded up, they speeded up.. lucky I got to the gate first, to which they quickly surrounded!.
Then out to Burnham on sea and a café stop, then the long beach walk, very windy but refreshing.
I met a lovely lady from a horse livery who was out with her daughter and her horse. It was an ex-race horse and you could see the excitement as it broke into full racehorse mode, charging hell for leather on the open sands. So impressive to see a horse at that speed, so free and totally alive!..
I arrived at Brean walking to the outskirts to Diamond Farm campsite. Then another generous offer for what I was doing. Another kind donation. I was met by Trudy the manager , the ground staff who treated so well. Even chauffeur driven to the camping field. Fantastic!
Showers and site is spotless. Washed and now crashed in my ten.. thank you all!! Diamond Farm Holiday Parks.
Day 20.
An early start and a nice walk out of Brean along the estuary then out towards the Mendips. The weather began to break, with showers and by 4 the heavens really opened up.
I had planned to cut through the Cheddar area then up to Bristol. However this would add extra mileage and more hills, as well as a long hike through the width of Bristol and suburbia, to get to the seven bridge.
Amazing views on the tops.
By 4 I dipped into a forest and pitch up. The rain hammered on the tent all night, which in a way was better than being awoken by deer, foxes owls and badgers. A good night’s sleep!. I have always had a touch of anxiety over wild camping, which would keep me awake, not wanting to be moved on. Yet it went through my mind, who the hell would be out in this peeing weather!. I was very tired so quickly drifted off.
Day 21. Up at the crack of dawn, rain rapping at the door, birds awakening in the woodland to a wet and muddy morning. I decided to change my route and skirt around Bristol from the coast.
Walking off the Mendips back onto the planes of Somerset. I had crossed the Strawberry line the previous afternoon. An ex railway track converted to a long distance bridleway. So going off the Mendip trail (national trail) cutting through public footpaths and zigzag cross country to the next national trail. Public footpaths are a bit random, overgrown, poorly managed and lacking in signage.
The next three hours was spent hacking my way through stinging nettles, bracken and brambles (bushwacking!). A lot of map reading and wild guesses to what the farmers have done ploughing up footpaths and locking gates. Stiles not big enough for backpacks and random grumpy bulls, horses and donkeys..
As it had rained all night, mud and wet grass soon soaked me through and finally I made it to the Strawberry line bridleway. A long straight line heading north, my direction!!! And finally good progress.
I made it to Yatten and a lovely cafe for a late lunch. I met a cycling LEJOG too. I was to be met by my wife with documents for a wet signature and a hotel for the night. To be blunt the next few days weather was to be crap! Plus a niggling blister, so just in time for a zero day… Wife to the rescue!
Oh yes more tics, the insecticide is brilliant, as soon as they latch on and bite, they die, being left dead hanging off my skin.. vile!
Day 22. The heavens opened again, a wet and windy morning, wet through most of the day. Walk through fields and the last of the Somerset plains over footbridges and cow fields.
Over the M5 and back towards the coastal path.
The cliff section between Clevedon and Portishead was very overgrown, shoulder high in nettles, brambles, gorse and bracken. The rain had made them droop over the paths making it a wet prickly task to cross..
The sun came out and the views of the Seven bridge spurred me on. A little stop in Portishead to record, then onwards to the docks to finish and a cheap hotel. (Go2)
there’s a lot of money here, it’s a posh suburb of Bristol with a massive marina full of gin palaces and large yachts.
Day 23. “Sh#t walks of the UK!. “Portishead to Chepstow 23 miles.
Well what can I say about the first half of the day!. “Sh#t walks of the UK!.”
Portishead the Riviera of Bristol, million pound yachts and gin palaces, stunning..
Then the coastal path, sewage works ( I was gagging) then 5 miles of car storage industrial sites and concrete jungle Avonmouth (very run down) the paths were overgrown and poorly marked..
The Shittyish walk so far. A horrible walk on the M5 bridge too.
As I walked along the industrial areas I seem to get a second wind and speeded up, not wanting to hang around.. lol
To me the history of Avonmouth goes back to the Napoleonic wars, steeped in history, WW1, tens of thousands of men set off from this port for Gallipoli and the Persia. WW2 departure for Singapore and Tabuk ( including hundreds of Suffolk men) the Falklands war!.. Now the largest importers of new cars, incredibly busy and industrial. Just a bit shit to walk through..
The next part of the day I entered Gloucestershire, good trail markings and views of the Prince of Wales bridge and Seven Bridge.
A long walk across the bridge, Wales and Chepstow! Really good trail markings so far!
Absolutely shattered!.
Day 24. Offa’s Dike. A nice start out of Chepstow, crossed the bridge to England and Gloucestershire and climbed up onto Offa’s Dike, though some posh houses with amazing views.
A very well marked route, well kept and once on the tops very level and good progress.
40-50mile gusts and sideways rain. I was soaked through (even my pants lol) . I reached the Devils pulpit, the weather was bad, so not great visibility. Let’s just say the devil wasn’t in, as it was raining so hard. Branches were falling off the trees and it was getting very wild. I turned it into a short day. It was getting muddy and slippery.
I descended down to an Abby and treated myself to a roast dinner in a pub.
Day 25. Tintern to Monmouth.
Again an absolute pleasure to walk the trail. A wet start with showers but later in the afternoon it dried up. A lovely ridge walk in the trees then I cut down to the river to walk miles of river banks. Fly fisherman, kingfishers and water meadows, wild flowers and more orchids.
So I let the cat of the bag and received some lovely messages. I had only told a few people I was doing the LEJOG, now I had put it out there. The reasons I had mentioned before, basically I didn’t want to make a fool of myself and fail 100 miles in.
Day 26. Monmouth to Pandy. (17miles) A damp start to the day and climbs through forests, then open fields. Very green and a patchwork of fields. Sheep cows and meadows.
The White castle half way. A secret gem hidden but an amazing structure unspoiled by tourists or the national trust… FREE entry!.
I went into some gems of churches too. Kind people supply tea coffee for the hikers of the trail, most churches had power too.
I met some lovely walkers from all across England, Europe and the States.
Day 27. Pandy to Hey on Wye.
A very steep climb first thing. Packed the tent and bag, away by 06:30. Leafy lanes then the climb. Most of the day and journey was spent on the tops, from trig point to trig point.
The views were good, but the wind was chilly.
The weather has been on and off rain. Some clear times and blue sky’s.
I met some LEJOGers for the first time on my trip (walking) an American called Trent and his Belgian partner. They kept me company for a while which was lovely. The views on the tops were stunning, seeing for miles and miles. The weather was getting wild, with clouds and weather fronts rolling in, then clear weather between each sideways down pour.
I am now tucked up in my tent rain pounding on the tarp, thunder and hail, the wind is bad too.
I may have a zero tomorrow as I have done 20 miles today.
Blimey 400 miles done so far! I am amazed.
Enjoying a zero day in Hay on Wye.
Apart from a Spar shop and a outdoor shop, it seems to have dozens of book shops and antique shops.. but a nice visit..
The castle and streets are lovely..
A nice campsite. I have met 3 LEJOGers today, one being Andrew from YouTube channel “Hunt on the trails “ who has caught me up. ( He is ultra fit and a marathon man lol).
Day 28. I woke very early to get my tent down before the rain at 05:00hrs, where a lovely red sun was poking on the horizon and a rainbow appeared. 60 Duke of Edinburgh girls turned up the day before at the campsite, they were all well behaved and did not complain about my snoring!.. lol
The rain was in from the start when leaving Hey on Wye. Wet grass and muddy tracks, a short walk along the river then a climb through woods. Along back roads and bridle ways and into sleepy villages. The churches were a blessing as my clothes were soon soaked through. Gortex is brilliant, but hours of rain, it slowly gives in. The hill climbs heats it up and dries it slightly. The second church I stopped and plugged in my electrics, had 2 cups of tea, left a nice comment in the book and a donation.
Then the big climb of the day and then 3 mile descent to Kington.
At this point being so high, the clouds gave way to reveal Birmingham in the far distance and a glimpse of the peak District. Maybe a week or less away!
Because of my early start, I had clocked 10 miles by 10 o’clock, by 2, 17miles and another campsite. Food , shower and admin..
An early night and the rain is back on..
Day 29. I left at 05:30, refreshed from a good night’s sleep at a campsite, showered and clean body. The weather was drizzle, then heavy rain, but like a football match, a game of 2 half’s.. I left Kingston and as most days starts with a hill climb up onto the tops. I was soon soaked through, wind as well. But a pleasant walk through the valleys.
I am starting to hate sheep, being a vegetarian I pity the lambs, who are getting fat. I witnessed a mother pooh on the suckling lamb, dreadlock of dingle berries hanging down. The lamb now covered from head to toe in wet pooh continued to butt and feed.. vile.. the smell too is making me gag. They huddle around the sties for shelter from the wind and rain, piddling and poohing all night, so in the mornings there is a mass of slip hazards and a foul stench. In the heat too, these places really stink.
I got to Knighton by lunchtime (14 miles) filled my face with an omelet and phone charge at a cafe, then pressed on.. The sun came out and I started my new route of zigzaging, jumping from poor footpaths to bridleways, a bit of a nightmare as many farmers/land owners fail to maintain them, bushwhacking through brambles and shoulder high ferns and said goodbye to Wales and the Offa’s dike.
I am now on mile 20. Tucked up in a small wood, washed and fed for a wild camp.
Day 30. I am now a Tramp!.
Wild camping is great, a little unnerving, however this adventure has little choices. I had a very sheltered night and slept straight through. My alarm clock being the dawn chorus. My perfect sleep following a long day took some encouragement to emerge from my cocoon of sleeping bag. Porridge on and coffee done, I was packed away and walking by 06:00hrs.
A wet and muddy trail from high up and a long decent to valley floors. Meadows and crops, I picked my way through villages and farm tracks. Coming across a stunning village, church and castle of Hopton Castle (name of village). A small explore then climbed up over to the next valley.
There seems to be pairs of red kites in nearly every valley I have passed through. Stunning birds of prey..
Despite using footpaths rather than bridleways and national trails this route is on the “End to End” handbook for LEJOG walkers. The youtuber I met a couple of days ago, cut through this way and I can now recognize his footprints of his trail runners (shoes) and still see the flattened grass in the meadows of his route. Reassuringly even if they are a few days old.
More villages and farmland and I stopped at the Craven Arms (a town, not a pub) for a late lunch and a resupply (water is always an issue). Just before entering the town I stopped at a park bench to repack my bag, so to make more room for my shopping and a quick tidy of my sweaty appearance. A man walking his dog walked by, looking at me up and down in distain. Our eyes met, he responded to my glance and said “NO, no I haven’t got any change!! .. So now my appearance is of a tramp!, unshaven, unkempt, and a bit sweaty in the heat.
While in a cafe the lady behind the counter remarked on my big rucksack, on telling her what I was up to, when leaving I was presented with a large piece of chocolate brownie for later.. Free!
There are some lovely people about.. I hope its admiration, rather than pity.
I climbed back up into the hills and onto the Wenlock ridge which I will follow most of tomorrow.. I found a wood and am now waiting for twilight to pitch my tent and remove my tramps clothing lol..
I met a lovely elderly posh gentlemen walking his dog. Again he was very interested in what I was doing and suggested the ridge was a great place to stay the night. later in conversation, he admitted to me, he owned most of the land and that part ridge we were walking on. I felt touched once again and pleased to be making this journey.
Day 31. A good night’s sleep and a 04:30hrs dawn chorus. I have an “ap” for bird song and it hit 14 types of bird in ten minutes. My pitch was high on the Wenlock ridge, a strip of woodlands which runs for 10-15 miles long.
The Ridgeway is limestone and rolling fields one side of meadows of grass, soon cut for winter feed. Yet these fields are packed with wild flowers, two types of orchid. The other side of the ridge drops steeply some places a sheer drop. The path runs from the Craven arms to Much Wenlock and Ironbridge. A good highway for my journey.
It was warm and the sun did make an appearance, yet much of my day was under the trees of on bridleways, even an old Trainline.
Red kites are very regular on my trail. A highlight today was finding a patch of wild strawberries, tiny yet packed with flavour!
Much Wenlock was a gem of a small town and I spent some time on a little square drinking coffee, resting my feet.
Then onto Ironbridge, a nice tourist trap for Sunday drivers and bikers. Home for the night is the Swan inn (Sundays are so cheap for accommodation) a bath too! I had a soaked in it, until it went cold!
Beer and a hot meal, a room with a view of the river.. ( a co-op down the road too)
19 miles.
Day 32. A faff and a hunt for gas..
A very wet start but a lovely night in the Swan Inn at Ironbridge and a fabulous cooked breakfast (I needed a sleep afterwards). I have been off my food lately and am trying to eat more.
Today was to be a faff, I had run out of gas, I thought I was going to get a bus into Telford and saw there was one at 09:30, arrived early and waited and waited (others waiting too) seeing the next one was 11:30. I walked into Madley. No luck there for gas there, then got the bus from there to Telford. Seeing there was not a lot in the town centre, I hopped on another bus to the huge out of town shopping centre (mountain warehouse – millets – sports direct) but no! No gas sold there either.. I resigned myself to no gas. I did a war memorial post after walking back to the trail head and passed through a small town (the name escapes me) and found a small DIY shop.. bingo! gas! Porridge and tea for me in the morning..
Back on the trail, despite walking 17 miles I had only acuminated 11 due to my side adventures.
I am moving along the Monarch’s way/Shropshire way trail eastwards mainly (I would rather be heading north) some sections are a little overgrown, I am a little stung and scratched today..
Feeling fed up at a wasted day I found a small wood for the night. The mosquitos were out in force as there was a small pond near, high pitched buzzing all evening . Not my best days effort.
Day 33. A lovely night’s sleep just one or two barks from deer in the night. Up and at it from 04:30, stepped off just after 05:00hrs, found a picnic table just past a paddock. A delightful view looking back over towards Wales.
The mornings wildlife was a treat, a beautiful field mouse scaling up a leafy plant, nibbling the wand off, then carrying it off in it’s mouth, totally oblivious to me… So sweet. A kite eating roadkill and loads of row deer.
I came across a beautiful priory in the morning sun. A quick look around in the dewy grass, then passed two stately homes.
My first canal crossing of the trip then a long march to Penkeridge. BLEND Penkridge Coffee and supplies at the CO-OP.. some lovely people too.
I hiked out of Penkeridge along another canal and under the very noisy M6. I stopped to watch a canal boat go through the lock gates, then the climb out onto Cannock Chase.. deer everywhere. While crossing a wheat field I startled 20 strong herd, they got to their feet and sprinted off, almost like the scene from Warhorse!.
I am now 19 miles in and have found a nice spot for the night. Pines above me with a buzzard’s nest not too far away. I think it’s rather busy so must have chicks. The pitch was way off the trail on the side of the woods and on the edge of the fields that dropped below me. peaceful and away from people.
Washed and waiting for the sun to go down!.
Day 34. COWS
A lovely wild camping spot, a nice breeze to keep the condensation away, a view and solitude. I awoke at 04:30hrs to the sound of rain and began to prep to leave.
A hike across Cannock Chase, a labyrinth of trackways woods and quarries. A large piece of common land above Wolverhampton and Birmingham. A bit of road walking at rush hour, then canals for breakfast and coffee.
Soaked through and overheating in waterproofs the rain subsided. Wet chest high grass, brambles thistles and stinging nettles seemed to be relentless..
I know I have been moaning about sheep, the smell and the odd ideas of hygiene.. I take it back.!… the next section was flat, Stiles every 100 metres, bogs, cow hoof pitted fields, tempting twisted ankles. Mud, cow green stinking mud.. and COWS
in what seemed every field.
in what seemed every field.I am a brave sort of guy, animals such as predators are not afraid of humans. Cows are..
Unless they have calves or they have two world cup balls hanging down where an udder should be..(The world cup starts this week).
My first test was to climb a stile and negotiate green mud, with cows not wanting to move.. a few shouts and stick waving they conceded passageway through the deepest green mud, while still adding as they moved away.
I must be a bit of a site, large growth on my back and two walking sticks, yet most cows were unfazed.
The highlight of the day was 30 cows blocking a trackway and a bridge. My kind words slowly got them moving, I pointed out to them, I have no leather goods on me, I only wear trail runners. I am a vegetarian and if they liked I could recite Morrissey for them.
They slowly got going however one was standing it’s ground, this one was taller than the rest, horns, double the weight and two foot balls dragging along the ground, the others seemed to be walking around him.. the moment had come, the bridge nearly clear and I let rip with my best Norfolk farmers voice “Let’s Be Having Yaa!” too which they all scattered!..
The downside to my actions and the clear path, I had created what was now 30 new friends!. They must have believed I was the new hunchback farmer and followed me for some time.. it seemed like miles! I speeded up, but remembered they liked that game, so just ambled along like the pied piper.
I bizarrely found a coffee in the middle of nowhere which was a welcome break, the staff were lovely.. Cobwebs
Today was a keep walking day, I cleared the metropolis of Uttoxeter and passed around the edge, Aldi and a Lidl so water sorted.
I am now crashed out in a bit of scrubby grass with the sound of the A50, just off the trail, the birds are singing. I think this is the spot for tonight..
This spot is called Derbyshire! A 20 mile day..
Day 35. Slut drop Stiles.
A great night’s sleep in a nice secluded spot. I imagined everyone was watching TV. (I still do not know the score lol). I was up at 4 and wading through the wet grass. I had heard shooting from a firing range all evening (no PTSD for me!). This was a massive complex, which went on for some way, state of the art clay pigeon technology and several posh loos, with running hot water!. Lol, It was too good of an opportunity at 5 in the morning, not to have a strip wash in lovely hot water!. I felt refreshed and clean!.
The hay meadows are amazing, designed for winter cattle feed, yet packed with insects, butterflies, buttercups, and orchids.
Most of the trails over the past few days have been flat, today was very nice following the river which was very picturesque. I walked past the JCB factory (in the distance) with thousands of them lined up, waiting to destroy the countryside lol.
Today I must have climbed 50 Stiles, all of the different states of repair. Many in a poor state, yet I am getting good at climbing over them with a heavy pack. Most are slippery wooden ones, on mounting you wait for the split second, a wobble and seesaw effect, tugging brambles, hawthorn, barbed wire, yet I am sure most farmers enjoy planting holly bushes next to the Stiles.. the best approach is to grab hold of the tallest marker pole with both hands and swing your legs over. If the steps give way you are left doing a good “slut drop” while gracefully sliding down the pole.. my bag is slowly filling with holes from the plucking brambles and wire!
Thorpe was my destination today and a slight shock to the system after the flat few days with the start of Peak District and Dovedale.
The weather is heating up again and to be blunt and Suffolk “I had a right old swet on!”
And finally a church which isn’t locked up.. Thorpe church..
The countryside is beautiful today.. the start of the Limestone way..
Day 36. Dovedale bliss.
I left Thorpe and entered Dovedale, walking up the valley full of expectations. Reaching the iconic stepping stones. A tourist trap, yet early in the morning I only came across a handful of people. Two fly fisherman and the odd dog walker. The place was peaceful, birds, ducks and sheep breaking the silence.. dippers jumping in and out of the water. Trout jumping, and herons hunting..
Caves, waterfalls and green walkways. The place is well managed, yet must have a huge footfall.
I spent some time exploring and ended up at Milldale for a coffee, a wonderful walk.. 10 out of 10..
I climbed out of Milldale and out onto the Tissington trail, old railway line and Pennine Bridleway. This was also a pleasure, little navigation, just miles of trainline with two stations stops with cafés and toilets.
My day ended at Pomeroy, a pub and a choice of two campsites. I had my second set of trail runners delivered as my first pair had 500miles on the clock. after wearing them for 15 miles today I now have blisters on both heals! booh!
Day 37.. Hot.
2 zero days for admin and washing of clothes ( I was beginning to not only look like a tramp, but smell like one too lol)
Pomeroy to Castleton. I knew it was going to be a hard day. I had worn my new trail runners and despite being the same model they managed to give me blisters after 15 miles (Altras 6’s from 5’s), so today was going to be short. A wrangle with cows this morning in the second field in and I knew this one was not the sort to be milked. The other younger ones played ball but this bugger stood his ground. I walked around the edge instead of being brave..
The Derbyshire dales are lovely, I dropped down into some picturesque valleys where fly fisherman were busy fishing.
It was very warm, despite having plenty of water the hill climbs were heavy going.
A fair bit of road walking today.
Duke of Edinburgh kids were everywhere today, many lost, most were seen sitting under trees crying for their mother’s or being chased by sheep and cows.. it’s great to see. But even I was inspired by my experience to continue in this type 2 fun .
The climb down to Castleton was amazing, walking through a gorge below the castle into the town was a memorable walk. In this weather it could of been a castle in Spain.. brilliant..
Todays route stayed on the Limestone trail, well marked.
Tomorrow Edale, early doors for the climb up Jacobs ladder and the Pennines.
Day 38. Very Hot.
I started early as I had two big climbs to do, one being the climb out of Castleton over a pass into Edale. The normal gauntlet of cow dodging, and the temperature was climbing too. The temperature peaked 28°. Luckily for me both climbs had been done by 10 o’clock as well as the 10 mile mark.
Edale was still sleeping when I passed through, but met loads of Duke of Edinburgh kids on the climb up Jacobs ladder, the tears from all their crying was filling up the streams nicely. I always give words of encouragement, “the ice cream hut should be open at the top!” and “only another hours worth of climbing before the top.. !”
But most are good kids and my hats off to the organisers for looking after them.
I had a nice chat with one teacher, who winked at me and said “watch their reaction”, he then asked them to filter and fill up their water bottle s.. their little faces cringed at the colour of the rusty water “we’er not drinking that! It’s brown sh**y colour”. Lol.
This all happened at Red Brook waterfalls, where the sheep have become used to the rich pickings of DOE kids rucksacks and mine. I stopped for a break but soon had the naughty little sheep hunting through my bag for food!.
I gained my first glimpses of Manchester, tower blocks and a steady flow of aircraft flying into the airport..
Still suffering from blisters and the extreme heat, I managed a good 17 miles. I am now chilling in the evening breeze at snake pass.
Day 39. Midge heaven.
Today I knew it was going to be a challenge. More mountain miles and elevation. The sun was unforgiving, with little shade. I was carrying a lot of water and drank my fill.. every opportunity I was stopping to refill, filter drink and move on.
My sun hoody has worked a treat, lightweight, sun and insect proof this has been worth its weight in gold. My hat was dipped in every brown stream and dirty puddle.
I was up at 04:00 and the sun arrived over the tops by five, just as I was dropping my tent down. A beautiful mist burnt away with a slight cloud inversion.
Sadly the midges, seeing the sun headed straight for me, clouds in seconds and were unbearable.. lucky for me I just had the tent to stuff in the bag.
I crossed snake pass road, which had been closed for resurfacing, which had been lovely and quiet, no boy races all night which was nice.
A slow climb up to my next water source for coffee and porridge (a breeze to keep the midges away!)
Then the long grind down to Torside reservoir. The temperature was rising and this was a long slog.
Crossing the busy road and the next ascent begins. Amazing views up through rock high sided valleys, then moors.
No shelter of trees or rocks, it was starting to be a scene out of Laurence of Arabia, although plenty of water, a hot sticky slog.
The second wave of midges struck, clouds of them, no stopping or I would of been found the next day, sucked dry. A husk on the ground.. I headed up onto the tops of “The Black Hill” for a breeze and respite from the insects.. I found a nice spot looking North. With no shelter I pitch the tent and now collapsed inside. A great view too.. it’s still Bl++dy hot! I slept on top of my sleeping bag, I pitched the tent high with plenty of air flow and the doors both open (bug net shut).
Day 40. Flagstones.. and a Faff!
Last night was hot as hell, but for me I had a classic wild camp on top of a hill with a constant breeze. Twinkling lights of Huddersfield, I awoke at 04:30hrs to a glow in the east, no condensation on the tent, warm enough to sit out and watch the sunrise while drinking coffee and eating porridge. My thoughts went out to all those poor souls who have to get up, commute in traffic jams and miss the morning sun..
So today was going to be a faff. My Solar panel which has been working well decided to die on me and only give a low charge, I tried everything I could, but a read up on it and this is no joke, it doesn’t like 40°+ heat.. I may have cooked it in the sun!! Bizarre!.
So I only had a few days charge left on my phone and power bank. No social media FB posts, navigation, phone calls , the world was going to end! I still don’t even know the football scores.. have England played their first match yet?..
So I hiked off the hill over Meltham moor (I saw the growing stone, it doesn’t work!) and road walked down to the small town of Meltham (or after today now known as Melt- ham) Morrisons first, on the hunt for a bigger power bar. No luck, but did some food shopping, drank tea and had a beans on toast.. so next I hopped on a bus to hot Huddersfield and picked up a large brick of a power bar.. weighs far too much but it will get me through this Pennine desert..
I arrived back in Melting ham at midday, just in time for the midday sun to melt the tarmac on my 30°+ heat and a long steep climb up back onto the moors..
You may have noticed I put pictures up of rare orchids, they are growing like weeds up here!, roadside and moors..
As I walked back over the top of Meltham moor, I saw a small shrine to Keith Bennett. Keith was one of the children who came to a sticky end with theMoors murders..
After years of denial, serial killers Ian Brady and Myra Hindley confessed to the murders of two previously missing teenagers, Pauline Reade and Keith Bennett. 1987 Excavations: Police mounted a massive, highly publicized excavation across the Wessenden Moors above Meltham (around the Isle of Skye and the A635) and Saddleworth Moor. Nothing was found, but both murderers got days out…
It was very sad to see.. I might not sleep tonight, there are thunder storms forecast (I might hear screams in the night).
I passed many reservoirs, most have brown water in, it’s the peat, it’s bad enough drinking it, I was not tempted to swim in it either.
The moors are lovely in the sun.. I must not moan about the heat, this section could have been mist, clag and sideways rain.
Flagstones.. these are all along the Pennine way. They keep you dry and out of the mud, you are kept off the bogs and nesting areas, but most importantly you know you are on the right path. This trip I constantly check my GPS on my phone, hunting out the direction of the next stile or gate.. I now only check my phone to see how far!
A massive amount of work has gone into the stones, there’s 260 odd miles of this.. totally amazing..
Now sitting out in the sun, soon to pitch my tent for the night.. bliss..
The Pennine millage was low today, because of the faff. But I clocked up 17.. but only covered 9.
Day 41. 34°
My pitch for the night was fairly flat and comfortable. I had no idea that the stone next to me was the perch for the local owl, it flapped passed several times, no hooting just squarks, I caught it on camera early in the morning when I startled it, it perched on a peat hag and hissed at me, for scaring him..
So about 2 in the morning I awoke to the strong smell of smoke. I opened my tent to see an orange glow in the distance. I had seen a little smoke late in the day, but now the wind had shifted. The moor fire was some miles away and according to the BBC Manchester was choking too.
I had planned to get up at 3:30hrs, as rain and some thunder was forecast between 6-7. Plus this would also beat the heat of the day. I was up and at it by 4:30hrs crossing Castle Shaw moor, then later Moss Moor. There had been a little thunder and a little rain about 05:30hrs, so being high up I could see that was all. But 30 mins later a cracking thunderstorm came in. I saw a lightning strike hit the ground, steam or smoke rising, I retreated to a gorge/hollow and filtered water in the pouring rain.
It soon passed over and my next waypoint was the descent to the M62. The noise and stink of diesel fumes seemed very strong. Sometimes your senses are heightened while being out in the wild. Crossing the footbridge felt As if I really was now in the North!. Another climb up onto the Blackton edge with amazing panoramic views..
The next section the temperature started to climb, please check out the people in the white gowns, for a moment I thought I took the wrong turn and I was at Stonehenge!.. but no, a regular occurrence for the Muslim faith at this spot..
Cows… Yes more! These too enjoyed a tussle, some young ones ran at me, partly in excitement, while the older ones just followed me for some way..
Reservoir after reservoir of brown water. Water at this point was beginning to be an issue. Ideally water should be sourced from running water, not too brown, standing water or with a metallic film or brown slime floating in it. The best spots seemed to have cow or sheep standing in it, just using it as a toilet. The fresh muddy puddles looked like a better opinion. I have a water filter, which turns brown water into a champagne colour, yet tastes like brown water. A dead sheep was floating in a small canal system and I was getting rather dry..
I made it to Stoodley Pike monument. A huge pile, seen by myself on many occasions while travelling up north, but now I was actually standing on it.. despite the 30°+ weather, this marks the half way mark. I was very uplifted and excited to reach this point..
I then climbed down to Old Chamber Campsite, where I drank a lot of water. Then I walked down to Hebden Bridge and stuffed my face with pizza.. and an ice cream.
Today was just too hot. My body is a little broken. I am still nursing blisters, so made the on the spot decision to book two nights and rest my bones.. the climb back to the campsite was tough with a full belly.
Saturday was a zero day.. after the heat of Friday I decided to stay an extra night in Hebden Bridge to recuperate, charge up power banks and wash clothes.
The town is very much worth a visit. Independent shops and a good vibe, I had a nice breakfast in town and went food shopping for the next couple of days. A lovely bakery was recommended for pasties Saker Wholefoods, saker artisan bakery. A lovely lady who served me.. and yes the pasty was delicious
A large co-op store and a hardware store that sold gas.
The campsite was lovely too, the right sort of campers who don’t mind being out on a limb and appreciate the views. A barn owl floating up and down the meadows in the evening..
A thunderstorm stuck again, which was quite spectacular.. I think the football was on in town, yet I heard no cheers!.
Day 42.. Rain and wuthering heights!
A cruel hike back down to Hebden Bridge in the pouring rain then up the other side. I was up and packed up by 4:30hrs, yet it took until 6 to get onto the tops.
I made a poor decision wearing shorts again, soon to be scratched and stung, having to connect random footpaths to reconnect with the Pennine way. I actually doubled back on one path as it obviously hadn’t been used in a while, shoulder deep in nettles..
Rain turned to drizzle and the tops were a little dull and muddy. Two short eared owls were chasing each other oblivious to the hiker, which was nice.
More dams and lakes and a wet morning ahead. 10 miles by 10’oclock always makes me happy. A stop for a coffee on the lakeside in the rain followed by another haul up to “Withins hieght” and I iconic Brontë old farm house (looked very drab, I thought at first it was a WW2 bunker) yet the views from the farm made it clear that this inspired a book.. especially in the rain.
More hills and lakes, then a tussle with a highland cow. It decided that it’s rightful place in the forthcoming sunshine should be at the base of a stile.. I lost the game of shouting and stick waving, as his mate decided to join in. I resorted to a commando roll over the wall with my backpack on. Not too graceful, but it worked.
Yet another climb up onto the tops and quiet an endless crossing. Shooting bothies galore with some wild camping opportunities. Yet my mind was on a shower and hot food.. it actually got quite nippy in the rain.
Made it to Cowling, Winter House Farm campsite, a small site with a shower, toilet and a chance to charge phones. I walked down to the campsite with a Royal Navy officer who was also doing the trail. Sadly the pub wasn’t serving food, but we’re able to get a burger from up the road and eat it in the pub.. bliss.
I have now crashed out in my tent feeling rather full.. be aware next door have some adorable puppies who think they are guard dogs lol
20 miles.
Day 43. Black wine gums.I left Cowling about 05:00hrs, it’s so nice to get moving at that time, you can see so much wildlife. But for the first time it felt nippy getting out of my sleeping bag was a slow unwilling manoeuvre.
The forecast was for rain at 7 so it was nice not to pack a wet tent away. Most days seem to start with a hill climb, today was no exception, then a steep descent, then another climb up to the moors and Pinhaw beacon just in time for the rain.. it was actually rather cold up there..
The Yorkshire dales a lovely patchwork or rolling green hills, picturesque villages and mossy stone walls.. I came across some very well kept farms, one had goats, which are strange creatures, totally unlike sheep in their manor and quite comical. This farm had a great sign “be aware! Goats are stupid” not content with their large field, toys and playground ( not kidding) they are always reaching through the gates and fences trying to get that clump of grass which is just out of reach.. The farmer has now resorted to drastic measures.. tying pipes to their horns and apparently buckets too, to stop them from getting their heads stuck.. funny.The Town Hill farm which not only has mad goats has a “snack shack” for the hikers. Fridge freezer, hot and cold drink, chocolate, crisps and water. With an honesty box a reel treat!
I then entered a canal section which was a change from hills and moors. Then onto the beautiful town of Gargrave. A large co-op, pubs and café. However for me the church (St.Andrews) was open for a coffee morning, where I had a cheese scone and a cup of tea all for £3. Some lovely people inside, interested of my adventure.
Leaving the town the cow situation started to increase, some are quite stubborn, however I know my limits and can now judge quite quickly if they are going to play ball and behave..
The water situation has improved greatly. The health of the rivers too. No long the rusty brown peat and iron metallic colour, but crystal clear water. Herons, kingfishers and dippers. The last section and Malham are glorious. Malham is a bit of a tourist trap, tomorrow I pass through the gorge. But now have eaten in the pub and pitched a really nice campsite.. Riverside campsite Malham..
Living outdoors for so long and being exhausted most end of days, your senses increase. A day hiker and B&B hiker can be smelt out at 20 feet, shower gel, perfume and hair products.
They get a chocolate on their pillow, me on occasion a piece of sheeps pooh.
Being so tired, a pub dinner is a treat, a few days ago I was so exhausted I found my favourite bag of wine gums lost in the bottom of my backpack. I went to open then split the bag into, gums flying. I gathered them up in a pile, thinking there’s not many black ones yet again and slowly shuffled them in, one after another while looking at my phone and thinking, that’s tea sorted I am off to bed.I looked down as the numbers had gone down rapidly, just two green ones, when i spotted a black one I had missed in the grass. Picking it up and about to pop it in my mouth I noticed this was a bit sticky and wet on my lips. On closer inspection it had a grey underneath and was moving.. nature’s a wonder, even a black slug can disguise itself as a wine gum..
Today 21 miles..
Day 44. One of the best days..This morning has been the highlight of my entire trip. It is hard to compare coastline to mountains.
The setting of Malham Cove is quite magical. The cliff face plunges from the moor, yet the unusual rock formations add to the climb out of the cove. Above the cliff face there are more gorges and more stunning scenery, beyond that a tarn/lake water meadows orchids and woodland.. I can not recommend this section enough.
One of the best walks in the UK !.. definitely on my entire trip.
The journey for me continued up over Fountains Fell down onto Forcet Moor then the epic and steep climb up Pen Y Ghent, some of it was not for the fante hearted with a heavy backpack. Then the long descent down to Horton in Ribbledale.
I have met some great hikers this week all with the bug for adventure. A naval officer hiking on their hols, a chap training for the PCT in the USA and today a fast packer running 37 miles per day with a backpack. All interesting folk, with knowledge and enthusiasm. Ever helpful with trail advice.
I will admit I have mapped all my routes across the UK and researched them to the mile, yet the Pennine Way I just followed and saved the mapping without really looking at the places I was passing through. I had heard of these places, but not researched them.. today was wonderful.Today’s walk I had cut to 15 miles as the weather was meant to break at 13:00hrs. So I was hell bent on getting up and over Pen-Y-Ghent and the slow climb down to the village and campsite in the rain.. despite this I am now sitting in the sun at 16:00hrs only having a few spots so far!
The campsite Holme Farm Campsite has got some brilliant facilities including battery lockers for charging phones.. brilliant
My cheapest campsite so far£7.. clean and tidy too.. well done Yorkshire
15miles, just one pint of Timothy Taylors, Landlord and a pub lunch.. time for bed..
Day 45.An early start and a nice walk out of Horton R. I stopped an hour out of the campsite for breakfast. I am using a gas stove (normally love using alcohol stoves, but hard to find methylated spirits ). Gas is very noisy and sounds like a jet engine at 05:00hrs so I am sure the other campers wouldn’t appreciate it. While making breakfast I herd, what I thought was a seagull flying up and down the wall behind me, lifting up then spinning around then returning. After some time I wondered what it was up to.. I was mistaken, it was a barn owl, sadly my phone was with my bag, so I enjoyed the show, hoping not to disturb it with movement. I feel very lucky.
The walk in comparison with the day before was a little dull. But a great view of Dent viaduct train line.
Serval long straight trackways with rolling moorland, waterfalls and some lovely old buildings and stone walls.A nice wild camp for someone at Ling gil bridge.
A slow and never ending walk down to Hawes passing cliff faces below the path with a constant show of birds of prey, who seem to be nesting there.
Muck spreading just before Hawes, I was gagging!
The weather was breaking and once at Hawes decided not to climb up to the tops to camp. I was proved right as it was a rubbish night with wind and rain.
Feeling a little jaded as my knees are hurting so will take some zeros at the weekend.. too many steep downhills..
Day 46.A long gradual climb out Hawes and I made the right decision not to camp on the tops.. the weather was wet and windy all night and now a crazy wind on the tops.
I left late (08:00) so missed the rain. I was blown off my feet reaching Great Shunner. I made a coffee on the trig point in the shelter and the sun made a very cold climb worth while as it was just 10° ..
The walk down was blowy, meeting many groups of D of E groups climbing up. ( Poor little mites) They always seem to have too much stuff and look very miserable.
A great climb down with the wind on my back, I think at one point I was jogging down the paving slabs, although at this point I had wet feet from the bogs.
The views were amazing, I know I keep using the same words, but I have been so lucky with the weather and visibility, this section was brilliant. The walk to Keld was steep sided valleys.
The walk to Keld was steep sided valleys.Waterfalls galore which were amazing. I had no one around, but this is a bit of a tourist trap and a gem for the area. On my trip I did see Cheddar gorg, this area is ten times better..
The next section was a long hard slog across the moors to Tarn Hill inn.. camp, food and a Timothy Taylor beer.. happy days. A very windy pitch and night ahead. £10 with access to toilets and water at the pub.. no frills but worth it.. It was busy, but I was lucky to be out of the way.
Day 47. Trail MagicTan inn is a very popular destination for day trippers as well as hikers. There is accommodation as well as the chance to camp, with a shower and toilet. The Inn is really out on a limb, far from a main road, no mains electricity, yet it has an air of a place that time forgot. Candles at the bar, an open fire and stories of lock ins when the roads are blocked by snow and bad weather.. highwaymen, smugglers and ghostly tales.
I was up as the sun burst over the moors. A cold night, just down to 2° a few ice crystals on the top of my tent. The wind had been quite strong all night and now a stiff breeze. I packed up and was hiking by 5am.The 3 mile section after the Inn is rather boggy and not that clear where the path is. It’s probably the worst of the trail so far. I have been very lucky with the weather, no prolonged rain or sideways rain. Therefore the paths have not been too muddy or waterlogged as some hikers have found.
I am glad I stopped there rather be confronted with this boggy path at the end of the day.
The moors are bleak, I am sure Emily Brontë would feel a bit depressed on such a gloomy morning.. A cold stiff breeze, resulting in me wearing a coat and gloves for several hours. I found a bridge and a stony seat for breakfast and an audience of sheep while I ate my porridge..
The journey was broken up by small gorges between each set of moors.
Shooting booths for grouse are all along the trail. Grouse and baby grouse dart back and forth the path. Plovers and countless large birds are nesting. Some make such a noise when walking by, desperately trying to distract you from going near their nests.
I had seen on a number of signs “Gods Bridge” and wondered what it was and why? . This is a natural formation of rock which has formed a bridge and a set of waterfalls below.. guarded by cows, be warned..
Eventually I ended up at the A66, busy yet the good fortune to have an under pass, which I was beginning to think, how the hell can I cross that road!. A long pull over the moors. I found a shooting hut with a sign that says shelter on the end of the shed. The local land owner seems to have taken pity on the walkers and had provided access to the end of the building, almost a bothy. I hope this can continue.
After many miles of moorland you then drop down and enter grazing land and the rolling Yorkshire dales..
A precious gem appears .. Clove Lodge and the snack barn.. set up to look after the hikers, a large barn with seating for many. Water, fridge, freezer. Cold drinks, tea, coffee, snacks and sometimes fresh cake.
Clove Lodge and the snack barn.. set up to look after the hikers, a large barn with seating for many. Water, fridge, freezer. Cold drinks, tea, coffee, snacks and sometimes fresh cake.A donation tin and a guest book to be signed.. I had two cups of tea and a banana, wonderful.. sadly no company yet a welcome break. Thank you kind people! Trail Magic!
10 miles by 10 o’clock!..
More farmland and hills, lakes, then a long walk down to Middleton in Teesdale for a late lunch.
I was picked up by my wife Lynn. A few days off to recover my knees, new trail runners and kit too.. I am very lucky to have this support so far from home, yet this is my last resupply..
17 miles..
Review of Pennines so far:
to Middleton TeesdaleHaving walked all this way from Cornwall I can say I have been pleasantly surprised by the Pennines. On planning my route across the UK using the OS maps I totally disregarded researching the Pennines, because I knew they were well trodden. Although there are some deviations (Pennine Bridleway/journey) I am sticking to the original route even if it means climbing mountains with a full 50+litre back pack.
I had only seen a few YouTube scenes from lejog videos on the Pennines, so feel I should have looked more in-depth as I have on all the other trails..
But wow! This has been an eye opener! On my travels I visited Cheddar Gorge, yet Malham Cove and it’s village are ten times better. The village is fairly un spoilt, a crystal clear river running through it, with wildlife to match, herons, kingfishers, dippers and an abundance of small fish. A cafe and a pub are lovely. The campsite is the first I have visited where I found cut flowers in the men’s loo ( not kidding, I thought I must be in the ladies loo!) The owners were so very friendly too..
Even the trail above the Malham Cove would be one of the best parts of my journey.
The wildlife has also astounded me, eagles, owls many ground nesting birds, which give great delight telling you are near their nests. Grouse that chuckle after making you jump from being disturbed by your ramblings..
Edale area and Hebden bridge are both worth a stay on your journey. Pen-Y-Ghent was reasonably straight forward for a climb as well as a decent campsite below. I have wild camped, but with the heat of the summer this year I have preferred a hot shower and running water. I have been blessed with the weather and have enjoyed good visibility throughout my journey. 34° was a little too hot but managed to keep topped up with water. There has been some trail magic, with snack huts and barns, which are very appreciated by all, either day hikes or through hikers.
We are so lucky to be able to access the backbone of the UK. I have witnessed the changing of the seasons for the farmers and can appreciate the hard work dairy, beef and sheep farmers put in. The ancient farm buildings too continue high into the hills with their hay lofts and livestock stalls in preparation for the hard winters. These are part of the identity of the Pennines and the counties they cover.
There have been many remote peaceful moors, most with the reassuring flagstones marking the trails, only to have the silence broken by road and an occasional motorway.
Another highlight and a must do stop overnight is the Tan Hill Inn. For a remote pub and eatery it was a welcome break at an end of an eventful day. Candles at the bar and tables, an open fire and packed with friendly people, hikers, day trippers and bikers.. very lively..
On a funny note, this is the season of the Duke of Edinburgh hike for the teenagers. Their poor little faces seeing the next big climb or the realisation of a false summit ahead fills me with fond teenage memories of being lost, soaked through, with blisters..
The trail markers have been really good, either finger boards, arrow plates or on the moors paving slab and white tipped posts marking the way forward..
Well done the Pennine Way 10 out of 10 so far!
Two zero days to recover and to pick up new trail runners and a new solar panel..
My footwear fail when a bought a new variant of my trainers, these gave me blisters. Lucky after a search the old stock was found and I am to have the original variant on my feet. My old ones still have a bit of life left in them, very smelly a bit bald and the odd hole, just like old friends.. I now dread to be parted..
The relentless journey north has changed my body dramatically. No longer the middle age spread of years of sitting at desks, sitting in cars, eating late at night following long hours at work. Grazing on hobnobs and eating canapes rather taking the time to sit down and eat properly.
Exercise that consists of running up and down stairs at work, or a grueling 2 week hike in Scotland, never regular exercise. This all lines up for a heart attack or stroke at 60.
I never weighed myself at the start but can safely say I have lost over a stone. Concerned not to lose muscle over lack of protein, I am doing my best to keep on top of things. My legs were skinny to start with, but now have little fat, only muscle. My waist line has shrunk, my face not so round.. I am now a walking machine.. !
Guilt for doing this selfish journey plagues me daily. Determined to follow it through can be rewarded with little things such as a wild animal, rare flowers or just kind words from friends and strangers.I have been touched by people’s kindness and generosity. The money raised so far is £1,595.
Strangers I meet have handed me money, paid for a coffee, food and accommodation. Which has been heartwarming.
I have relaxed and had my wife Lynn running me around for a couple of days. I was surprised to be put up in a holiday home, hot tub and a soft bed.. ( I did shower before I got in the hot tub lol honestly!)
I have struggled to be indoors, I now prefer a hard floor and a breeze!
And yes Mischief my dog is ignoring me.. a stranger gets a better welcome..
Tomorrow it starts allover again!
Day 48. Water and rocks.Teesdale to Dufton
I was told that things were going to be WOW ! and yes they were!.
I started about 08:00hrs after leaving my hot tub and soft bed. A long walk along the river, flirting with glimpses of the river below, through trees, bushes and farmland. To then walk onto open land and to see the wide stony fast flowing river open out. As the walk gained height the river moved into gorges and waterfalls. Spectacular views at every turn. The meadows alongside still full of wild flowers added to the glorious views. I picked up a trail buddy called Christen from Germany, who gave me news of other hikers I had bumped into over the week. I was going to bump into Christen and others over the following week while on the Pennine Way. To which I will be eternally grateful for the company.
The trail took us up onto moorland, yet still carried us along the rivers edge. A scramble at one stage ( a climb up rock faces) up above waterfalls and beneath a reservoir.
Higher and higher into the hills, 4×4 tracks then across moorland up into the High Cup Nick, a massive rock formation and canyon, utterly spectacular.
A long walk down to Dufton, campsite, pizza and beer. 21 miles.
Day 49. Clagy tops.
An early start, left the campsite at Dufton at 5, to be treated by wildlife, shrews rabbits, foxes and birds. Walked an hour then had porridge and coffee by a small stream. I had promised myself not to climb mountains in the clag and mist, being piontless, unless they had a view. I reached the lower path, to be confronted with brambles and stinging nettles. I was wearing shorts, so this seemed a poor chose of clothing and route. I now opted for the mountain tops, even if it breaks my rules. The day was grey and cloudy. It was now a mountain day and started a long climb up into the hills. Green Fell, knock Fell, Great Fun Fell and Cross Fell all 700+ meters dropping down each time. Low cloud made navigation fun. Visibility was down to 20 meters and the wind was fierce. Just 10° my choice of shorts kept me very cool.
There was a long walk down and stopped at Gregg’s bothy/hut 10 miles in. One of England’s few bothys. Lunch at 10 o’clock. I was met by a fellow walker and continued 10 more miles, drizzle and rain, not many views.A nice river section up to Alston. No campsite so I booked into Hostel ( I hope to have a good night sleep.. £30. Shared bunk bedded room, with 3 others.
A nice drying room, but I don’t think they will appreciate my 600 mile trail runners they seem to leave quite a stink
A bit of a dull day, no visibility but high altitude.. The day ended with a pub dinner.
22 miles..
Day 50. Bugs and Romans.I left the hostel at 5. A good night’s sleep in the dorm, 3 other people. I don’t know if they slept ok?.. lol.
Leaving Alston, I joined the railway line rather than the Pennine way. This was a good decision as by 10 I had done 14 miles on the flat terrain. The station at Alston has a steam engine and track and you follow it for some miles. Sadly I was a bit early to see it puffing up the track. After Slaggford,( no joke) the whole line is footpath.
Sadly I was a bit early to see it puffing up the track. After Slaggford,( no joke) the whole line is footpath.Shade from the trees was welcome however the whole day has been plagued by fly’s of all descriptions. Horse fly’s (bite) ginger sheep shit fly’s (bite) nats/midges (bite) suicidal fly’s that just want to drink your sweat (annoy) and the odd bluebottle who has just been feeding off a corpse.
A number of fly’s have also been swallowed. I am sure they weren’t bluebottles.
I cooked porridge on the side of the train track, while boiling the water I looked into the bushes and was so pleased to see wild raspberries! Pink porridge for me!..The scenery was nice, we flirted with the river all morning, then the main event was the Victorian viaduct 1852 absolutely colossal. I walked over it which did feel a bit scary!.
The plan was to get to Haltwhistle as that will be the last resupply until Jedburgh (Scotland).So I did miss a small section of the PW but I think I saw more, especially the viaduct.
After a full English and a visit to the Co-op I set a route north to meet Hadrian’s wall. This was via a lovely secret gorge which was amazing just a mile out of town..
The next joy and momentous point of my journey was to walk along Hadrian’s Wall. Most Romans would have regularly walked as far as me and I felt they would have been in awe of this feat of engineering as I am. I also felt quiet emotional, yes I had really walked this far!, I could now see the Scottish borders in the distance! How the Hell did I get here!!
It was also hot, back up in the 30’s . I am now pitched at Windshields campsite feeling rather tired.. 21 miles.
Day 51. Golden.At 05:00hrs I was lucky enough to make the short climb up onto Hadrian’s Wall and was treated to a cloud inversion and sunrise, which was magical. I feel so lucky to be there in that moment in time. looking out over the battlements out towards Scotland, seeing the mist and clouds moving slowly, giving glimpses of my journey ahead.
The wall is a tourist trap and the afternoon before there were hundreds clambering in all directions, so to have it all to myself was satisfying.
I walked for a few miles witnessing the sun climbing into the sky and the mists slowly leaving, revealing more wall and ancient stones.
The lakes were like glass and all very peaceful.The sycamore gap to me has an unfortunate real story behind it. The truth was never released about the real reasons behind the tree being chopped down in protest over the homes being taken up for holiday homes.
If it had been an ancient oak tree I would have been outraged. In normal circumstances a tree undermining an ancient monument would have been cut down years ago.. sorry rant over..
So I soon left the wall and headed north on the Pennine way, through fields and woodlands, mostly pine. My GPS failed for several hours resulting in me having to do proper map reading. But soon resolved the technical hitch. GPS is wonderful, just press a button and it pinpoints you to within 50ft.
The sun was out and the temperature soon began to rise, 20-25°+ and with hill climbing water could start to be an issue.
I bumped into two young girls. As a hiker you can quickly tell who is hardcore, a section hiker, day hiker or just lost.. ( sometimes by smell lol) they both had the LEJOG warn out look, weeks/months of walking. They were heading south from John O’groats! Fantastic especially so young, sorry girlies I never made a note of your names, FB might be able to resolve this! Anyone please drop me a line!The girls told me of Horneystead farm, a tuck shop for walkers!, which was a welcome break, my first can of Ironbrew as I am getting close to the boarder.
The afternoon was a bit hellish in the heat, the destination seems to get further away. The first pub I had a j2O, 100yards later a coffee shop and a pasty and rest. Then a short walk to a campsite. Bellingham has a number of pubs, pharmacy, hardware store (gas) and a good co-op.
The campsite, a bit busy, but a welcome shower sleep then a wonder back for food and a drink, bumping into a few faces from the previous week’s..
21 miles.
Day 53. Injury..As normal I was up with the sunrise, the campsite was a good one, but a little busy. The long climb up onto the tops was easy but the heat was starting to be turned onto full. Porridge overlooking the town.
The bug population seems to have increased too. “Clegs” (AKA) horse flies are the real pain. They lazzaly land on you and just sit there, you think they are about to fly off, but no, before you know they have skimmed a layer of skin off you and they are having a feed, the next day you have a lump.. They can chew through clothes too. Luckily not mine, yet they constantly land on me…
Nat’s midges and other flying things too.
Today was moorland and forestry. Long straight lines. Just a 15 mile day today as the next section is climbing mountains again and just 30 miles to the end of the Pennines.I saw my first highland cow today, I must be getting close!
A couple of miles out of my planned stop, I slipped and fell pulling a muscle/tendon in my left lower leg. I landed on my hand and twisted my leg, when landed. just a stone on gravel, very bazar, now in agony. I hobbled into the campsite at Cottonshopeburnfoot (yes this is a place not a typo). It’s a nice campsite but far from any town or shops.
My leg is not great and I will see what it’s like in the morning. I think I will be stuck here for a number of days. ( I have 3 days supplies but a 2 day hike to the end of the Pennines) I assure you I will be finishing this. My palm is black with busing. I slipped in the shower too. doomed!. (my hand blew up a few days later, I was told I may have broken a bone in my hand by a nurse who was staying in a van on site, she also said my leg would take a month to heal.)
So I am having a couple of days off “zeros” my leg isn’t right, but a bit of rest should make things better. I did actually have an elastic bandage! and now tape too. For those who know my past experiences dealing with first aid on others I have always carried a lot of medical stuff..
A nice holiday park for statics and motorhomes.
They only take backpackers with tents, £10 a night.. perfect. Kitchen area, microwave, kettle and electric sockets.. showers toilets..
Sadly the warm weather and lack of wind had the bug population explode this morning..
Each day on the trail I have met a number of the same people hiking, arriving at the same destinations each night independently. Some lovely people who have been warm, friendly, fun and very helpful. Each gave me something on leaving, coffee, food and some deep heat/ibophen cream. It was sad to say goodbye to them this morning, they will finish tomorrow. (Pennine way)
In a fit of boredom, I decide to make a kit list video of my LEJOG journey. Link: Kit List.
Day 53. kind people.To say I was 100% would be untrue. My leg is not great. Strapped up and walking very slowly was the plan, pills galore. This last section of the Pennine Way is probably the toughest, 30 miles to finish, no water for 25 miles so reliant on what can be carried.
Being stuck at a campsite with only a couple of days food wasn’t the plan either. For my good fortune and others generosity and kindness a person gave me fruit, noodles, chocolate, cookies. A lovely lady handed me a large chocolate brownie too.. so I went from having two days food covering 4 days to now enough for 4.. thank you kind people!
I left the campsite at 05:00hrs and at first struggled to get a rhythm going, especially not to overstretch my leg. The morning mist was beautiful and a quick sighting of a fox.The next section starts with a vertical climb up to the Ridgway, through forest then shoulder high bracken. I did wear trousers for this, but was soon soaked all over. For those down south in 30°, I was getting rather cold!. The line going up the side of the hill was straight and very steep. The last part is a rock face and boulders to scramble up. Not easy with a backpack.
Once on the tops, a slow march east, up and down the tops, some trig points and some lovely views.
I have once again been blessed with the weather. The temperature was about 15° most of the day. The wind was very strong, the progress was slow, being reduced to 1 mph.
There are two rescue huts 10 miles apart, basic and necessary. I am currently in the second.
I met 3 lovely chaps working on the trail mending gates and fixing the paths. Lovely chaps even gave me some water for my journey.. these people too, are worth their weight in gold. The Pennine way has been an eye opener to how trails should be.
The last climb of the day was 743 just below the Cheviot mountain ( I would have left the path for the extra climb but I was fading at this point) the walk down went on for ever and I was glad to crash at the rescue hut where I decided to call it a day. A 20 mile hobble, I arrived at 19:00hrs, 13hrs of walking. Food then sleep, hopefully no visitors to keep me awake..
I have my passport ready for tomorrow lol..
I can’t believe I have walked so far. I attempted to get my glove off, but gave up, just too waked out.
Day 54. Scotland!
I had a great nights sleep in the rescue shelter, undisturbed by any visitors in the night. I never really liked staying in bothys for that reason, however the wind was blowing all night and it meant I had no wet tent to put away in the morning. A lovely sunset and a wonderful wild sunrise.As I had an 8mile hike to Kirk Yetholm the finishing point for the Pennine way and a community shop in the next village that opened at 10, I had no reason to leave at 05:00hrs. So I left just before 07:00. A lay in! Lol. I should have waited until 09:00 then I could of had a traditional pint at the Boarder hotel at 12:00hrs!
I left the hut and it was wild and windy with plenty of cloud blowing over the tops, quite chilly.
Several steep climbs then the border was crossed! And then the slow decent to Kirk Yetholm. ( I had brought my passport but no one challenged me). I actually felt quiet emotional crossing the border. My poor brother while laying in hospital dying, we had a conversation about things we were going to do and he said just getting to Scotland would be an achievement. God bless his soul ( he is actually with me in a small plastic pot, a bit of him is to be scattered at John O’groats).. I would do anything to lighten my backpack lol..
My leg is very strapped up and doing well, but I am aware of the damage I may be causing. A short couple of days then a rest day soon.
The Border Hotel being shut and was a little bit of an anticlimax. Stinking boots in a pile and the worse of it all no pint.. nooooo!
I had thought about leaving my old trail runners, but they have a little bit more to give and I don’t want the hotel to be declared a biohazard!
However a short walk to the next village, community shop and a deli, my bag was full of nice things to stuff my face with. Cheese salad baguette, coffee, chocolate, hobnobs and crisps I sat on the village green like a hobo who hadn’t eaten for days and enjoyed the midday sun..
St. Cuthberts way.
This route starts at Melrose and heads east to Holy Island. I joined it heading west to Jedburgh and quickly realised I was going against the flow of traffic! Walkers are great, they all want to chat and when telling me I was going the wrong way they all seemed thrilled to meet a LEJOGer. Cash has been shoved in my hand today for the project ( over £2000+ to date!) I took my glove off this morning to eat, but later while hiking up onto the tops a lady pointed out my swollen hand. Very likely to be broken.Jedburgh is over 16 miles and on top of the 8 already done I decided to call it a day as my leg needs a rest at 12 miles.
I am now sitting on top of a hill overlooking northwards preparing to pitch my tent..
For those who have donated money online I am extremely grateful. This means a lot of good things can happen..
Day 55. HobnobsI spent a peaceful wild camp night on Grubbit Law hill. 326ft a flat bit between two peaks. Rather cool in the morning and a bit nippy to hang around, I had made it down by 06:00hrs.
Strapped up, I soon found my pace on the flat rolling farmland. A long section of road walking that made a change, but I found myself holding back as my leg seemed to be protesting.
This area of Scotland has seen little rain, the fields are dry, water levels low. Everything is is yellow and brown of late August.
Barley and wheat, I think the Scotts make a drink or something with these..
I stopped in a small but neat and tidy village at a bench and cooked up some porridge and tea, not a soul around. On the hill there was no bird song this morning, yet the village was busy with birdsong.
Another small village called Battle and a lovely castle to explore at Cressford..
Names are great, I saw no cress but did see a farm called Cowbog and a village called Otterburn.. very descriptive, poor otter.
St. Cuthberts way is very tame compared with the Pennine way. It was quite noticeable that after ten you start seeing the day packers, hiking just after their cooked breakfast in the B&B reaking of shower gel and perfume, now sweating and cursing the uphills. While passing in the opposite direction meeting small groups they ask me how much further or how steep is the next hill. My new game is “Which one of you came up with the bright idea of a hiking holiday?”. Fingers are always pointed at one of the party and the others hiss “he did!” “She did!” All the while sweating and looking in pain. I have myself to blame lol.
I hiked through some lovely forests, mostly pine but occasionally oak and beech 200 years plus.In my front side pack I carry snacks and drink for the day.
The last of the hobnobs were being finished off while walking, when in this wood I spotted a small mouse running along the track straight for me. I stopped dead, wanting to get my phone out to take a picture. Flicking the last piece of hobnob forward I went for my phone. Any other time a wild animal would have disappeared!
Not this mouse a piece of oaty hobnob!
a piece of oaty hobnob!It stopped to inspect it’s find, then starting to nibble! My phone was not on silent, the click of the shutter announced the imminent social media sensation and it shot off into the undergrowth still clutching it’s prize .
.The temperature was climbing and by 1 I was on my last legs Jedburgh just a few miles I trudged on. An expensive campsite but a town next door. Co-op chippy and pubs (all the pubs were shut when I got there.) A visit to the chemist. Swollen hand from my fall and still a painful leg. An ice cream soon took the pain away.
A zero day tomorrow after 16 miles..
A nice zero day in Jedburgh. A wondered into town, brunch ( it’s always good to eat before going into a supermarket) then shopping. Admin of washing clothes and charging batteries ect. A lazy day.I should be on BBC Radio Suffolk tomorrow morning ( they like interviewing mad people) between 09:00-10:00) I apologise now if I mention “type 2 fun”.. ( things you laugh at afterwards, not during).
I have been reflecting on my journey so far and it seems like such a short time ago when I started, yet I still have hundreds of miles to go!.
I will have to walk to the conditions now as my torn calf muscle is very poor. I pushed it finishing the Pennines as there was no real exit route, but the finish post. I should be ok if I take it slow. It’s mostly flat tomorrow but back on the tops again the day after.
I am pleased people are enjoying the posts, it’s strange being out in the wilds while people are cheering me on! Yet I wish to document my journey, maybe it might help others with theirs (or put them off) there is no real set route. Some options included flat fast canal paths or even mad A and B roads. I wanted to cover some great trails, to which all have been well marked and well trodden. It’s the bits between which have been overgrown and a bit of a nightmare!.
I am now doing the “Scottish national trail”, unmarked but are connecting trails across Scotland. Wild camping is legal here, as long as you don’t upset livestock or pitch on people’s front lawns (believe me some do).. leave no trace!..
There are some sections I will have to buy camping permits (national parks etc).
I have done the West Highland Way 3 times (once in the snow) so I will go via the Cairngorms instead.
Once I reach loch Ness I will decide on which route to take depending on the weather conditions. Either via Inverness or straight up to the North coast!/cape wrath trail!I met a lovely couple in a cafe today from Newcastle and we chatted about sir Bobby Robson. We had both known him, but he found it funny I didn’t know the football results! That’s the problem when you’re out in the wilds!
I can say I haven’t watched a single match or TV for some time.
I thought it was a bit quieter last night!..
It seems quite bizarre my life before this journey, I might be becoming a bit of a tramp, yet I am always seeking adventure..
Blimey I have lost a lot of weight!..
Day 56. Ginger maiden.
Refreshed from a zero day, I awoke at 04:00 and was walking by 05:00. A long day ahead.
The weather was grey, but the forecast was good all day, sun by midday and getting warm again.
I rejoined St. Cuthbert’s way crossing the road and river walking along country lanes, no cars or people, just robins and sheep..
I joined an old Roman road after a beautiful wooded section and country home. Crossing a wobbly wooden bridge which spanned the river. Fish jumping, swans and herons.
The Roman road stretched out for miles from Jedburgh to Melrose. Oak and beech trees, the road as big as a dual carriageway.
I took a call from BBC radio who wanted to know my progress ( more donations arrived soon afterwards!) I think people enjoy my pain lol.
The Roman road was the site of a major battle with the English being completely battered. A shrine lay at a top of a ridge with these words:
A shrine lay at a top of a ridge with these words:The verse then, as now reads;
“Fair Maiden LilliardLies under this stane.Little was her statureBut muckle was her fameUpon the English loonsShe laid monie thumpsAn’ when her legs were cuttid offShe fought upon her stumps”
AD1545
These local ginger haired girls were rough ! No wonder the Brits ran back to the border!Today’s fair was raspberries, a small amount of blueberries and the best find was a field of peas, delicious!! They ended up in tonight’s cuscus ..
I arrived at Melrose in good speed. Still trussed up my leg gave me no pain until about 17:00hrs while climbing steep hills.
I had coffee and cake at Melrose, a nice Abby and was chatted to by some locals who were amused by my adventure..
A visit to the co-op for water and supplies then an afternoon march along the beautiful river Tweed. Very wide, full of fish and local kids cooling off in the summer heat.
The afternoon was a bit of a trudge. Along train tracks and cycleways skirting around suburbia and a gypsy camp ( I thought at first it was a new campsite not on the map, but thought better seeing the tattoos and beer bellies and that was just the kids!.. ) it’s amazing how much speed you can make up with walking poles.
I joined the southern upland way and hiked around Galashiels then made my way up onto the tops, finding a small wood which at this point I was pleased to see a little dell to call home for the night.
24 miles and feeling rather tired.
Day 57. Snakes and Ladders..A bad night’s sleep. Despite having a superb wild camping spot, a small wood with a drystone wall keeping the beasts out. The cows and sheep wedged themselves along the wall, coughing, farting, crying for their mother, making random noises and smells all night..
Just on the outskirts of Galashiels the morning started high, but soon dropped down to start a very stiff climb back onto the tops of the Southern upland way. A short cut ended up a tight scramble on my hands and knees, grasping roots and branches hawling myself up, only to put more strain on my leg..
Trig points and rolling Ridgway’s. I joined the ancient Drovers road, a trackway between abbeys and a trench cutting through called the Wallace trench, designed to keep the Brits out. Also a well/spring called the Cheese Well. ( Looked a bit muddy)
Blueberries galore, wild and packed with flavour and a welcome treat in this warm weather.
Water was running low and I found a community centre with a drinking water tap. Happy days!
A long road section which seemed more dangerous than the mornings climb.
While climbing up to a pass leading to Peebles, I stopped ( more like collapsed in a heap for a rest) I thought there was a bit of old rope next to my bag. It moved.. an Adder ! Not seen many of these lately.. 3 today! It must be warm!..
I had planned to camp on the tops. I found a campsite in Peebles, but they wanted£40 a night! . The best campsite so far was £7.50p.. so I decided as I was feeling hot and sticky to book myself into a hotel for the night and get charged up.
24miles .
Day 58. Thieves road.A good night’s sleep at the Green Tree Hotel Peebles. The first time for many weeks in a proper bed. The room was transferred into a launderette. Beer and a meal, and despite a TV in the room I was well asleep before the England game.
I was marching off after 05:00hrs, it was tough leaving a lovely warm bed.
I said goodbye to my trail runners (shoes) they have managed 800 miles through bogs, rivers, rock faces, rubble tracks and tarmac. They absolutely stink, ripped and balding and I felt like I was losing an old friend, well someone you have to put up with despite the stink!..
Peebles looks nice, a one street town, pubs, cafes and a nice waterfront.
I passed the posh campsite leaving Peebles, a lovely site with neat lawns and a country estate feel. (£40 for my coffin tent! No thanks).
I rejoined the drovers road which climbed back up into the hills, through sheep and cattle fields. I watched a farmer and a dog on a quad bike enter a field. The farmer gave a few commands and the dog shot off and rounded all the sheep in the field. He then brought the herd to the farmer, who inspected each sheep. My west highland terrier can barely bring a ball back and would probably run home for it’s tea !..
I passed through some large dark and moody forests. Green moss seems to be taking them over.. very magical..More hills and unspoilt green valleys. A very warm day, I found a number of shady spots to cool off.
I stopped at a nice village called West Linton, finding a co-op I bought a sandwich meal deal and sat under a tree on the village green for a picnic. There are some beautiful places in Scotland. Stone cottages, village greens, the church emptying out for cups of tea on the lawn a perfect Sunday.
You may conclude most towns and villages are nestling at the bottom of the hills and mountains, so after an hour and a half break it was time to climb the hill on the cross borders Drovers road, at the top it joined a Roman road, then out onto the Moors.
On the Moors there were more cows, but the sort you don’t mess with, highland cows! Spectacular horns!
I was getting tired and started looking for a wild camping spot for the night, always preferable to have a water source, yet the first two were full of cows, but the 3rd was just perfect ( the cows might turn up later, but it’s really hot and I hope they are lazy..
Washed and tucked up for the night.. a blissful sunset..
No phone signal.
21 miles.
Day 59. When in Rome..A lovely night’s sleep on the moors. I was on the move at 05:30hrs seeing birds of prey busy on their search for food.
Cauld Stan Slap, the drovers pass onto the lower plains of Edinburgh and Glasgow, ancient and historical, the views from the top of the pass I could see smoke rising from Edinburgh hill fire. Aircraft taking off from the airport and the twinkling lights on the top of queens ferry and forth bridge. A view seen by drovers in the past, but likely just the smoke from Edinburgh chimneys. Beef and lamb brought to the cities fresh for the pot.
Several hours to cross over the pass then onto the misery of road walking from B roads to back roads to connect the trails.
I had found a mobile phone the previous day, but had little charge that afternoon to awaken the phone. By the time I had done so, I was out of signal. So I walked to a small town, to a cafe and plugged in and found the phone had the owners contact number on the scene stating it was lost. I phoned it and a delighted lady answered. She lived just down the road and drove up to meet me and collected it. (I had found it 15 miles back, very lucky).
She lived just down the road and drove up to meet me and collected it. (I had found it 15 miles back, very lucky).I then continued walking north through parks and more tarmac and B roads until I reached the Forth and Clyde Union canal. This joins Edinburgh and Glasgow. Very picturesque yet this is my next two days of path.. more tarmac, fast but heavy repetitive walking, my knees were very sore at the end of the day.
Wild camping would be hard along this route so have opted for accommodation for the next two nights, just to take the pressure off. I was very glad as the temperature was over 25°+ .shower and a feed. My knees are taking a pounding.
Despite factor 50 twice a day my legs are on fire!.. shorts back on again lol..
Today’s joy was finding miles and miles of wild strawberries on the tow path.. tinny yet packed with flavour. More flavour than a supermarket watery strawberry.. fantastic!..
When in Rome! Wild Strawberries and iron brew!
My day finished at Lin Lithgow
24 miles.
Day 60. Drudge.I left Lin Lithgow at 05:30hrs, a cool morning, especially when leaving a cosy warm room.
The tow path ahead on another day. All day! The path is essential to link the trails up, either east-west, but a link between 2 cities for bike or by foot.
To say tow paths are dull would be a bit rude. But in comparison with some of the stunning paths I have walked over the months, this has been a low point. There are many built up areas, council houses, flats, industrial sites and a giant prison ( I actually heard shouting coming from behind the walls ” I am innocent!!!!” ) .
Wild life too has been a bit limited. Herons and ducks, which is a good sign of health on a river. Only one Kingfisher. Plenty of cyclists.A scary viaduct with little room to pass on the path. But the highlight of the day was the Falkirk tunnels and the Wheel.
The video of the tunnel captures the darkness, but as I caught up with the boat, the occupants were singing hymns, very moving, however I made them jump when I was level with them in the gloom.
The wheel is a brilliant example of engineering. Hundreds of visitors turn out every day to the visitors centre. Quite a spectacul.
The day continued as a bit of a drudge walking in the heat. But a chance meeting of a couple walking the length of the UK, just lifted my spirits. I like my own company, but it is always nice to meet people who are on the same page.
I finished at Auchinstary, a hotel next to the canal. A hot shower and laundry.
21 miles..
Tomorrow is the start of the Highlands!
Day 61. Distant mountains.A late start for me, at 08:15hrs. I awoke at 04:00hrs as normal, but decided to hang around for a cooked breakfast in the hotel.
My knees were still hurting and the constant flat pavements were taking its toll. I have been taking protein drinks and eating more lately, so my body can mend. I have lost over a stone and a half in weight ( more likely 2) yet I had become an office potato. Rubbish diet and spurts of exercise. I am now a lean mean walking machine..
Just 5 miles left of the tow path, I left at Kirkintelloch for a disused train track and the Jon Muir Way. Leafy cover most of the way, it was getting warm too.
I know I haven’t been too kind about the tow path, but it has it’s uses. Etiquette while walking is to keep to the left, when hearing the “ding a ling” from a bike, raise your hand so you are telling them you are aware on the incoming lycra clad 50 something. A thank you from both parties! as they pass..
However I watched a jogger with earphones jump out of their skin, stumbled and ended up in the drink. The cyclist ended up in the brushes.. I helped the chap out of the water ( he looked too hot anyway, he only went in up to his thighs) I defused the argument by laughing at both of them..
I bumped into the two LEJOGers again as they were picking up a resupply parcel from the post office.Finally off the canal the landscape opened up. Mountains were rising out of the horizon and my first sight of Ben Lomond and signs for the West highland way appeared.
I am two minds about doing the West Highland Way. It is oversubscribed and I had done it before. However I could tag Ben Nevis to my trip (47th time). The route is stunning and I know it well. A pub at every other stop, shops, cafes , campsites, showers and like minded people.. but would I be wound up by idiots on the trail. Fire pits in the dryest summer, sh*t tickets hanging on ever bush. ( Toilet roll, “used”)
The Pennine way wasn’t that busy and very new to me, Hadrian’s wall packed with day trippers.Or do I go on the Rob Roy Way, a fraction of the people 3-4 shops in 100+ miles and the chance to go through the Cairngorms ( if the fires have gone out) I can’t make my mind up!.
I have until 07:00hrs to think it over. I joined the WHW in the morning for a few miles ( I will see how many idiots I can see and make a decision)
I am now camped on top of a hill overlooking the WHW.
16 miles. It did get hot.
Day 62. DecisionsA baby owl swaking and flying around in circles at night kept me entertained until midnight. I think the parents gave in and fed it a mouse.
I was up and at it by 05:00hrs, walking off the hill joining the west highland way at Easter Carbeth. The West Highland Way is one of the most popular walking trails in Scotland. Some sections are tough, 98 miles in total through some amazing country. Only 30% of those who started actually finish. Manly because people are unprepared, take too much gear and get blisters on the first day.
This time of year thousands are attempting it. I passed 15 tents up to the forest path for the Rob Roy turn off. Then watched a steady flow of day packers.Saw signs for red squirrels, but just saw loads of small frogs/toads ..
The first section is notorious for idiots, bad tiolet etiquette and plastic bottles. Park your tent close to the path and the local dogs will pee on them.
I passed a bushcrafter trying to lite a fire ( I put him off) he was carrying a 70lt pack, axe and all sorts of stuff hanging off his bag. He said he had walked all day yesterday and covered 8 miles and now had blisters. I wished him well.. lol
I met a local sheep farmers who congratulate me for being up so early, and his attitude changed when I told him what I was doing. He also noticed I had a bag of rubbish from litter picking. He dreads the summer and the fire lighting, yet agreed the path generates money for the local economy.
I met a lovely lady walking a friend’s dog. We passed the time of day, these things can be a real pleasure on my journey..
A warm day ahead. I decided to stop at the crossroads for the RRW and WHW and watched the people walking up the hill into the woods.. I was heading away from the throngs and heading East.
More road walking, then I turned off the road onto trackways. I have my suspicions but I think so far this route is for bikes.
Water sources seemed limited, so I decided the first decent water I would find a camp spot, even if it meant a short day.
Bingo the third river/stream actually had a good flow of water and next to it a good flat bit of grass of an old pumping station. It was 2ish and hot. A late lunch, a good wash, as well as clothes washed and the tent went up too.
A lazy afternoon of resting my limbs in the sun..
14 miles..
Day 63. Rain!A change in the weather brought light drizzle and made the midges feeding frenzy start a breakfast time. I have been very lucky with the weather, warm and dry. It was actually very refreshing, although not cold I decided to wear my wind smock rather than a gortex. This worked well today as there were a number of hill climbs, but by 11:00 o’clock the rain dried up.
This new trail probably suits bikes as I have been walking on logging roads, but later in the day I crossed over a pass on an old track and the mountains soon opened up as an idyllic view of Scottish pine and mountain tops.
I stopped at Aberfoyle for a resupply and made breakfast (no midges) and then climbed up through a wonderful community park high in the woods. Waterfalls and picnic area.
More forests, hills and forestry roads, and a lovely small lake/loch with wildlife. Dragonflies and wildfowl, busily hunting and feeding on this tranquil view..Along the tracks, logging roads and paths are signs of wildlife. Paw prints, fox, badger, deer. The occasional black poo with seeds in. ( I will take a picture of one tomorrow lol) These are the pine martins, I recently saw a nature watch program and these pops are territory markings. I have seen the back end off one earlier in the morning slipping into the undergrowth, occasionally a pair of dark brown ears in the long grass.
I am not going to smell one!!: Pine marten poo (or scat) is typically dark, twisted, and measures about 10 cm long and 1 cm wide. It often contains animal fur, bird feathers, or seeds, and is known for its sweet, floral aroma—often compared to Parma Violets or damp hay. Because they are territorial, they deposit it in highly visible locations like tracks and stumps.The end of my journey was a very long logging track then road down to Callender. This area is under restrictions for camping ( you basically go on line and pay) this area has been heavily abused, with rubbish, fire pits and general bad behaviour. ( A bit like pine martins) I was glad for the rain, it seems to put the idiots off. ( Or maybe puts them on lol)
Callender is a one street town, cafés, bars and a co-op! ( While walking you become obsessed by food)..
18miles.
Day 64. DragonfliesI started walking at 6 as it was raining, but was meant to stop at 07:00hrs. Leaving from Callender, however the forecast had it slightly wrong, it finished about 09:30. Not wearing a gortex jacket meant I was rather wet, but the air temperature was above 18° and the slow uphill was keeping me warm.
I joined the trail, which was an old train track, passing a Roman fortress. I am impressed the Romans made it this far. The outside of the fort was quite visible on the flat fields leaving Callender.Up into the Valleys/glen the waters were fast, with waters falls and rapids.
I have driven this route many times going north and it was very strange to be on foot. I felt lucky to be on the opposite side of the river with such good views.
After several miles of the river I reached Loch Lubnaig. The road was never far away (A84) but now the wide loch made it more peaceful. I sat on the shores and made coffee, trying to ignore the tin BBQs and beer cans scattered around the place. I tried to take a photo of 2 otters running along the shoreline, then on seeing me darted in the water, only randomly breaking the surface. Probably fishing.
Lucky me!..
The rain was more like drizzle now and the trackways narrowed and climbed further up the glen.
On reaching Styrathyre many miles later I spotted a café, the Brock café and had an egg roll and coffee. Again I have passed this place many times and failed to stop. Well worth the visit, the staff were lovely, I even had the chance to charge my phone.
Most of this section of the Rob Roy way is a cycle path, I only saw 2 bikes up to 12 o’clock despite being a Saturday, but soon after there was a steady flow of bikes.
I passed high above the stunning Lochearnhead, to also hear the sound of bagpipes coming from their country fair.The slow climb up into Glen Ogle and the mountains rise above both sides of the Glen. The old train track parallel to the road on the opposite side, a grand viaduct.
There were loads of dragon flies, I managed to capture a photo of one, it was massive! It sounded like a bird flying passed.
I found a decent spot at the top of the Glen and decided to call it a day.
18miles, and sorry I haven’t seen a single Pine Martin pooh! maybe tomorrow lol
lol
Day 65. Wet cow.The rain started at 03:00 and by 05:30 I had made breakfast and packed the tent away.. The midges were horrendous, despite the rain. I lit a smoke ring that cleared the worst of it, but as soon as my tent went down I found myself with snood, hat, hood up and lots of swearing. I had smidge and deet on too.
My pitch was just above the trail, opposite the main road and was soon crossing the A84 and climbing out up above Kellin on the RRW. I found a shrine to two airmen killed in a tragic accident, when their RAF tornado crashed into the mountain in the 90’s.
The climb went on for several hours, out across forestry tracks (sorry couldn’t find any pine Martin pooh!) then out onto the mountain range and a reservoir. Thick clouds and drizzle took the views away sadly.
I found a couple of 4×4 car campers high in the hills. One was snoring so loudly I think I may have woken them up, with my laughing..
Finally I was off the road tracks and back on grass, it was pouring one moment and drizzle the next soaked to the skin, but hot with walking.
I started the day by wearing my gortex Jacket , but the hours of uphill, soon turned it into a boil in the bag, so I reverted back to my wind shirt smock as it was cooler.
A group of cows, to lazy to move, entertained my journey, I passed by the one with the big horns, just by inches. They really didn’t care, it was raining and they couldn’t be bothered to move.The last 6 miles was on a back road alongside the Loch. A view of Ben Lawers, top hidden by clouds. I climbed it ten years ago with my lovely west highland terrier Bundle. I can remember her crashing out when I got back to the van, she pretended to be deaf when I suggested a walk into Killin.
I walked until I found a little secret wild camping spot, a gap in the trees off the road and just a spot big enough for my coffin tent. A nice view of the Loch Tay. A little rain and the occasional glimpse of the sun.
Food, wash and bed..
18 miles
Ok I haven’t gone out of my way to find pooh. The poo pictures are mine, and no I didn’t smell it either (parma violets). I have seen pine Martens this morning but they were too quick! The pictures are off the internet..
Internet:
Pine marten poo (scat) is dark, twisted, and sweet-smelling. Key features include an S-shape coil from hip-wiggling while pooping, a length of 4 to 12 cm, and a unique scent resembling parma violets or damp hay.
Appearance and Location
Shape: Long, twisted, cylindrical pieces that often taper at the ends.
Contents: Packed with bits of fur, small bones, feathers, or bright fruit seeds and berry skins depending on the season.
Placement: Brazenly left out in the open on raised tree stumps, rocks, den boxes, or right in the middle of forest paths and tracks to mark territory.
Smell and Comparison
Scent: Unlike the foul, acidic smell of fox or badger droppings, fresh pine marten scat has a musky, sweet, or floral scent.
Color changes: Can turn bright blue, purple, or red in the summer when they eat lots of bilberries or rowan berries.
Day 66. Burns and beastiesA cold morning following a night of showers. The sky was clear giving a chill to the air.
It is noticeable that the days are becoming shorter. The cool morning made it possible to have breakfast without too much fuss from the midges.
A great pitch, with fantastic views.
I set off about 05:30hrs along the very quiet road, seeing just one car in 3hrs. I was getting rather tired yesterday and a little cheesed off with the weather and road walking. I was lucky to find that spot. I had seen there was a wood half a mile down the road, when passing it there were several fire pits and car campers. As it was early I disturbed a group of deer who ran off barking in the direction of the car campers, then a stag jumped out and headed in the same direction, but bellowing it’s rutting ROAR! half cow and half lion, I think I may have woken up the campers! Lol.
The road teased me with views of the loch and mountains. I passed several fantastic and modern million pound piles with amazing views.
I left the loch road and climbed back up the side of the Glen. I stopped for a coffee in the warming sun. At first one or two midges. Hat on. Then more, snood, hood.. then more.. smoke bomb..
I had bought some Cappuccino sachets. These are ok, but create a slimy scum on top. But I was most impressed to see chocolate sprinkles appearing. On closer inspection I realised they weren’t sprinkles but midges. A quick stir and my protein drink was ready. I knew I should have started a month early.. dam midges!
Off I went building up enough speed to outrun the little beaties. This section I will say is what I imagined the RRW to be like, high up with amazing views, twisting tracks through different types of woods. Pine, birch, beech and oak. Every turn a new view with mountains and plains below. Fantastic..
Spotted loads of pine martin pooh!
I noticed the route veered off to see a waterfall section so having time today and the weather holding off I decided to follow it.. it was fantastic. As well as that, I knew I knew the name from somewhere!
Robert Burns, Scottish poet visited in 1787 and wrote his song “The Birks of Aberfeldy” after being inspired by the local birch trees, cascading falls and wildlife.
Bonnie lassie, will ye go,Will ye go, will ye go;Bonnie lassie, will ye goTo the Birks of Aberfeldy.A view along the ravine at the Birks of Aberfeldy.Now Simmer blinks on flowery braes,And o’er the crystal streamlets plays;Come let us spend the lightsome daysIn the Birks of Aberfeldy.The little birdies blithely singWhile o’er their heads the hazels hinge,Or lightly flit on wanton wing,In the Birks of Aberfeldy.The braes ascend like lofty wa’s,The foamy stream deep-roaring fa’s,O’erhung wi’ fragrant spreading shaws,The Birks of Aberfeldy.The hoary cliffs are crown’d wi’ flowers,White o’er the linns the burnie pours,And rising, weets wi’ misty showersThe Birks of Aberfeldy.Let Fortune’s gifts at random flee,They ne’er shall draw a wish frae me;Supremely blest wi’ love and thee,In the Birks of Aberfeldy.Bonnie lassie, will ye go,Will ye go, will ye go;Bonnie lassie, will ye go
To the Birks of Aberfeldy
……
Yes definitely the highlight of the trip so far on the Rob Roy Way..
I went into the town, resupplied and pitched up at a campsite. Showers and laundry.
I smell rather good now!..
Today has been a zero day.
I have not had a break in 12 days, relentless 18-20 mile days does take its toll.
I please to report I had no strapping or support bandage on my calf yesterday, so fingers crossed as I climbed several steep ascents and decent yesterday with no major pain ( they said it would take a month of rest) How I managed to hobble off the tops at the end of the Pennines (13hours) I still do not know how..
I have a hard blister on my heel from not pushing off on my toes, because of the calf. My knees are better today from having a break from the tarmac, so fighting fit once again!
While down south it’s been 30°+ up here it’s been 20° and it’s been pouring with rain to ( a good day for a zero)
washing done the camp smell is of flowers and citrus, rather than cheese and midge spray.
Aberfeldy has several cafes and bars so I have filled my belly. My food bag feels very heavy too.
As I have bragged before I have lost several stone and realise I am burning up 2,000+ calories per day. So I have been filling my face with protein each day and today I forced an ice-cream down me after chilly and rice and garlic bread.. feeling bloated.
I stopped at a barbers today then chickened out after seeing the prices, I think it would be cheaper to buy some clippers!
I will loose the beard after my adventure ( it scares me looking in the mirror, I look like my father RIP!)
Tomorrow I will be heading for the outskirts of Blair Atholl, and the gateway to the Cairngorms! My favourite place ( the west side as it’s not destroyed by fires) I will constantly keep a watch on the progress of the fires. However once I leave Blair Atholl I will only have my GPS messenger until Bob Scott’s bothy.. Then fingers crossed out via the Lairig Ghru, a route I love..
Day 67. Rob Roy Way completed.At 05:30hrs I started walking, fully recovered I made my way past the distillery Dewar’s (never tried this one) making my way off the road onto the riverside walk. Just half an hour and I decided to have breakfast on the riverbanks. Dippers and wagtails entertained me while I drank coffee in the morning glow. The weather was dew to rain and as I had my last sip I could see the drizzle moving up the Tay valley.
The drizzle soon turned to heavy rain, which persisted all day until 17:00hrs.
I left the riverbank and joined an old railway line.
Mr Beeching who cut 50% of the rail stations and thousands of miles of tracks could be thanked for the cycle network which was created. (I would rather see trains!) The whole trip over many months I have been blessed with a network of old train tracks, drovers roads, ancient causeways, Roman roads, canal paths and country lanes, making my journey safe as possible, free from lorries and cars.
The train tracks are level so I made great speed covering many miles up to the bridge at Grandtully.Crossing the bridge there was an aquatics centre for rafting and canoeing, it was very impressive, although at that time of the morning very quiet.
Then the climb started, up and over the Carra Beag and down through the woods to Pitlochry and the finish line crossing the bridge for the RRW.
The trip has had many wild flowers, some rare like orchids but some just bright and cheerful like foxgloves. The smell too can be a delight. I have come across many wild/seeded honeysuckle and today possibly the last of the wild garlic. My senses seem to be heightened living a bit rough. Which is good as I seem to appreciate special moments on finding patches of aromatic scents.
The weather was wet as well as the vegetation, soaking me to the skin. While in Suffolk it was sunny and 35°+ in Scotland it was 15° and frankly a bit nippy while being wet.
The standing stones at the top of the hill were rather nice, however as I arrived a camper was taking his tent down on the site, leaving a mess behind which was rather disappointing. ( As well as pitching on the ancient site).
Pitlochry was busy, making it 10’oclock with 10miles completed. I celebrated with a cooked breakfast and a phone charge. ( This is the new plan, fill my face while I can, I am entering the wilds of Scotland very soon).
I set off parallel with the A9. A route I have travelled along many times, journeying for adventures. Yet the route I took along the river Garry was absolutely stunning. While only glimpsing it from the road, by foot I found many gems.. a lake with waterlilies, waterfalls, rapids.. bungee jumping and Killiecrankie ( a place not an action!) a site of a major battle during the Jacobite uprising. I know I sometimes keep using words like stunning, majestic, picturesque, but these places were breathtaking.
I reached Blair Atholl on the twenty mile mark, now feeling jaded and wet through I found a café and had burger and chips, coke and a hot chocolate ( trying to make 2000 calories lol). I rested a while as the rain was meant to stop by 5. I then walked another 4 miles up Glen Tilt, the gateway to the Cairngorms. Now not having any phone signal, I was heading into the wilds. I found a nice forest pitch, just above the crashing water of the Tilt.
24miles..
Everyone is moaning in Suffolk and Norfolk, it’s too hot! 35°.
I have made it to Blair Atholl. Soaked to the skin in the pouring rain and it’s a barmy 15°. I have just put my wooly hat and gloves on!
Day 68. The CairngormsA peaceful night in the woods overlooking the Tilt river. It was a very cool morning and it was hard to get out of my nice warm bag. Walking by 06:00hrs.
Walking up the glen was lovely. I had done this route before in the winter so it was nice to see a different season. The rain held back and the clouds sunk in and out of the glen. This route was 16. miles long following the river. The further you go the glen gets tighter and the river faster. Eagles flew high in the mountains above, while dippers, herons and tits were busy below.
I came across some fishermen, fly fishing who later caught up with me in their 4x4s, moving from one spot to another. Not a lot of luck ( they pay a lot of money for the pleasure).
I stopped at the bridge of Tarf, where once I had camped. This was at the ten mile mark, so time for porridge as the rain had stopped and the sun was out. A beautiful waterfall and a perfect place to stop.I continued my journey up the glen and then a number of river crossings (wet feet with water up to my knees) lucky for me the rivers were still very low.
Another place I had camped before was the red house bothy. I went there many years ago when it opened. A land rover passed me and two men got out, looked around then drove off. I had missed king Charles by two minutes lol.
I had lunch there then set off once again into the heart of the Cairngorms and Bob Scott’s bothy. Finally a phone signal and the internet.
I am now tucked up in my bag again, rain lashing down and it feels very autumnal.
I actually saw two red squirrels. One blurry picture, they don’t hang around!.
25 miles.
Day 69 Mountain miles.A pleasant night sleep, some climbers arrived at the bothy rather late, but I was well away in my tent. I joined them in the morning for coffee and a chat. The midges stuck to my bag joined us too much to the amusement of the climbers. I did a radio interview there, as this is the only place in miles with a signal.
I set off after 09:00hrs with good weather climbing up out of Derry Lodge area over a steep pass into the Glen Dee. A deep valley with mountains either side, mountains with scary names like “The devil’s point”
This area is the back of beyond, no phone signal, no roads or 4×4 tracks.
I headed over the bridge to Corrour bothy for a morning coffee to find a dozen lads crammed inside cooking breakfast.
So I sat outside and made coffee. Far too many chocolate sprinkles on my coffee, it got so bad I put a head net on.. bl**dy midges!
I travelled back over the bridge over the river Dee and made my approach of the Lairig Ghru, a giant beast of a pass, steep sided with miles of bolder fields.
This area is notorious for strong winds as it gets funneled through from two sides.
I have passed through here on many occasions, in snow, rain and thick fog. The path disappears and it’s a case of bolder hopping and making your own way through.The rain was off and on, it’s always difficult when climbing to know when to put a rain jacket on and then cook yourself or just get a little wet, then dry out later.
I know I normally do 18-20 miles, but today these were mountain miles. I was nearly out of the pass, seeing Aviemore in the far distance when the heavens opened up. Seeing a well used camp spot I jumped a stream and pitched my tent just in time. I decided to call it a day, rather than get soaked. Tomorrow will be a short day too. Just 13 miles today but I can safely say these were mountain miles!.
Day 70. Cheap date.A late start as I waited for the rain to stop. Only 10 miles to hike to Aviemore for a resupply and a hotel, laundry and recharge my electronics. The sun hasn’t been out much for my solar panel. The forecast is wet and cloudy for the week ahead too.
I heard helicopters in the evening and one passed over this morning. The fire fighting continues in the area east of here.
On my walk off the pass I could make out the blackened mountains and hills to the south.
Areas I had only walked a few months ago have been lost in the fires. Peat burns underground and is likely to relight. The locals are slightly angry that it has taken weeks before helicopters have arrived to help, I believe the Suffolk fires helicopters arrived on day 2. It is rather sad, animals, reptiles and ancient trees have been lost.
As I walked down to the forest each path heading south had exclusion signs on.
The forest is a special place, unlike many Scottish forests, many of the trees are native species and for Scotland, this is what most of the country looked like in the past. Most moors were previously forests.The tracks are mostly straight, but for the rivers and streams. Deer and pine martins haunt the thick undergrowth, the occasional footprint gives away their presents.
From walking ten miles in silence except birdsong to crossing the Spey river to Aviemore high street is a bit of a shock to the system. It was a Saturday afternoon, cars, lorries, caravans, motorhomes, trains and people. A walk around Tesco’s then a late cafe lunch seems overwhelming after the few days in the wilds.
A night in a hotel. Running water, shower, toilet, kettle and a very soft bed!.. what hardships we take for granted. ( The hotel room looked tidy after I repacked my bag lol)
I am now definitely a cheap date. One beer and I am falling over!.. lol
Day 71. In the wild.I left the hotel at 06:30hrs, it was hard to get out of a warm bed, shower, then go outside into a chilly morning. I am glad I have missed so much television. It’s been a long time since I watched the news, but I can honestly say, it’s the same news.. Trump, imagration, Ukraine and lran.
I joined the Speyside way (Spey river) path traveling west, hugging the railway line, for quite some way. 2 red squirrels, 1 deer and a dozen joggers..
Crossing the bridge at Loch Insh I stopped after doing 8 miles and had coffee and a sausage sandwich at the aquatics centre ( I have eaten there several times over the years) there is canoeing, sailing and even a ski slope.
I plugged my phone in as over the next 4 days I will be in the wild with no power or signal. GPS tracker only..
I continued my journey west, heading along the lake, some road walking then endless forest paths. Crossing the Tromie bridge I was compelled to climb down to the waters edge and film the falls.. stunning.
I reached Kingussie and Ruthen barracks. More tales of the Jacobite troubles, yet an iconic fortress for the area.
A long plod along the cycle paths to Newtonmore. I hadn’t stopped since for many hours, flagging I went to the co-op and bought a picnic. The sun was out so I found a public set of benches, ate, then crashed out for an hour. It’s funny I saw a couple heading for the benches clutching coffees and food. Seeing a tramp with bags of shopping, now laying out on a bench in the sun, they crossed the road and sat on a wall further up the road. Lol.
I headed north out of the town up a steep road. This is part of the Scottish national trail. A route which heads into the wilds away from roads and civilization. Frequented by wild cats. ( I will let you know if I see one.. ( cats dig holes, so nothing to see here!)) .
Flagging even more, my phone was telling me I had reached the 26 mile mark, which is far too much for me. Going through a number of gates, I always check the ground for what’s being kept in the fields. Cows and horses is a no, no.. to wild camp. Sheep are ok as long as they are miles away. I entered a new set of gates and fences, no livestock. Perfect. I pitched up and quickly climbed inside, zipping up the bug net behind me.. peace..
I am now laying in my bag, with the pitter patter of little wings on the tent, sounding like rain.. no just midges.
Day 72. Wilderness glory.The deer were calling each other in the night for a short time, stags boomed in response, some from quite a way away. The rutting season is coming soon where it gets really noisy. I pitched next to the deer fence (inside). In the morning I heard footsteps then a bit of a stampede as the herd discovered my tent and panicked. I was quiet safe being the inside of of the compound.
Yes the midges were bad, yet I have it to a fine art of packing my bag inside the tent, then smoke bombs and spray ready, I break cover, packing my tent down and bagging it up in a few minutes. If you keep moving they can’t get you!..
I walked an hour before I found Dalnashallag bothy. This is an estate bothy ( not an association bothy) kept in good will to walkers, stalkers and farm hands, giving shelter when the weather is bad or in my case, somewhere to eat my breakfast in peace.
The deal for most bothies is to leave it how you find it. Never stay more than 2 nights, never leave food, unless it’s in a tin or bottle. Take your rubbish away and always except that people will turn up at any hour.
I prefer a tent as even this one had mouse holes everywhere..
It was rather cosy, sofas and a wood stove, plus somewhere to put the poney. Horses are used to carry the dead deer home for tea!.It really was in the middle of nowhere. I wanted to stay longer but decided to crack on.
I continued my journey out of the glen then joined the A86 ( a road that links Newtonmore and fort William. ) I hate road walking especially an A roads, but this was the only way on the SNT and the only route. It went on for many miles until I got to Laggan bridge. A great coffee house, but being Monday it was shut!.
More road walking continued (back roads) out along the river Spey once again passed lochs and reservoirs.
My body screaming at me I decided to call it a day at 16miles. It had been raining on and off all day but now it was getting heavy. I had earmarked a spot by a bridge and it was perfect. Garva bridge, ready for the big climb in the morning (plus a bothy an hour away for breakfast).
Corrieyarraik pass, a beast of a climb.
However the forecast was terrible, wind and heavy rain. I will wait until morning to decide..
Day 73. A damp decision.I awoke to driving rain on my tent, it was very hard to get started. I had checked the weather forecast and it said rain all day. Not very enjoyable as I had a pass to concor. Yet this was to be a twenty mile day and I wasn’t feeling that keen.
I managed to pack my bag, the inner of my tent and the ground sheet while still under the cover of the outer tent. Tarp tents are great. I watched a £600 Hilliburge tent get soaked through because the inner tent has to go up first. Mine being a trekking pole tent, the outer goes up first, then you can climb in and add the inner while in the dry.
The downside to my tent is it’s rather tiny. It can feel like a yoga workout just putting clothes on.!
The wind was up, very wet with sideways rain, so no midges, happy days!.I set off over the bridge back on tarmac. The road heads off into the hills and eventually runs out of tarmac and joins General Wade’s road. Wades roads were built hundreds of years ago to aid the Brits to suppress the Jacobites. I would say these are on par with the Romans and Hadrian’s wall. Some have been tarmacked over for A and B roads, but many in these remote places are just gravel and rock. Used by farmers, cyclists and crazy walkers.
I slowly walked on, seeing herds of deer, stags with very large antlers. The scenery was wonderful, rivers snaked their way through the glens and the mountains hung over the horizon dark and forbodding.
The road ran out after 4-5 miles, I was now rather wet and feeling cold. Melgarve bothy appeared, a welcome site and time for breakfast, now being after 09:00hrs.
Phone signal too. I had pinged a GPS message out, but now I could check the weather. 20-30mph winds on the tops and rain all day!.
I thought to myself, do I crack on getting soaked and cold, with no visibility or chop some logs and sit by a fire in this beautiful bothy?
I had coffee and porridge, then decided to chop wood that had been left out. After 30 minutes of sawing and splitting wood I was warming up nicely.
My decision made, I bagged the best bedroom and set about cleaning.
To be fair it’s a dark bothy and I am sure a bit spooky too. I doubt I will have any visitors in this weather.
I sit at the window looking out across the Glen, a herd of deer slowly cross the river, one at a time, almost in military precision, each stands guard, watching while the other crosses. A soggy eagle sits on a branch of a dead tree, an occasional shake to get rid of the rain off it’s feathers probably waiting in hope to see a rabbit or mouse to feast on.
Small birds twitter on the grass In front of the bothy, chasing flies and midges, all busy in the never ending cycle of nature. The clouds roll pass and waves of silver sheets of rain drifting by. The wind gave an occasional howl down the chimney, yet the roar of water from the stream below gives more intensity to the fact there is no sounds of humans or machinery.I will probably remember these moments for the rest of my life. Yesterday at the other bothy, there was an occasional bleat of a sheep, but today just the sound of the wind.
Every bothy has a visitors book, I have tried to write something in each visit, stating my journey and thanking for the shelter. People from all over the globe have written in these books, south Africa, Germany, France, America, Poland. All delighted to take shelter for a few hours or to stay the night. Most bothies are well away from roads or civilization, so most are well kept and not abused.
Now to be practical, trowel or spade for my next task.. or shall I wait until the rain passes..?
Day 74. Mountain Pass.The wind and rain continued most of the night, I was happy to be in the bothy. I had one visitor in the afternoon and we chatted about life and hiking. The fire was lit about 20:00hrs, in Suffolk where I live it was over 30°+ in the glen it was about 9°. The weather is set to get colder this week with a northerly wind. The forecast was for showers, some heavy after 09:00hrs so I was set to leave at 04:30hrs to get over the Pass, the forecast also stated a chance of thunderstorms, so I was keen to get it done. I have already been caught out on this trip in the Pennines, seeing lightning strikes is a little unnerving on the tops.
I left the bothy after having breakfast and coffee, feeling refreshed following my short day, the day before. A few bumps in the night, I did get up to investigate, but found nothing, so put it down to the wind or maybe the bothy ghost.
The morning was fresh and the clouds were building in the distance, yet low level clouds hung sleepily in the glen below. My climb up the Corrieyarraik pass on the General Wade’s road was a slow steep climb, with a climax of a zig zag path to reach the summit. The Pass is slightly spoilt by the pillions coming from a hydro station further down the Glen, yet as I have said before the road is an amazing piece of engineering considering this is from the Jacobite period. At the top and a mile below are some grim 1950’s blockhouse buildings. Good shelters in bad weather. The gods were with me and I was making good progress. A herd of deer were just off the top and crashed off the path, when I popped over the horizon. The moment I had started my decent the clag started to roll in. Everything started going grey, a little bit of sunshine and then things started to go very black. Several miles had passed and I reached Blackburn bothy. This could be easily missed coming from the south as a small path goes back westward into a dell, where you can just make out the rooftop.
At the top and a mile below are some grim 1950’s blockhouse buildings. Good shelters in bad weather. The gods were with me and I was making good progress. A herd of deer were just off the top and crashed off the path, when I popped over the horizon. The moment I had started my decent the clag started to roll in. Everything started going grey, a little bit of sunshine and then things started to go very black. Several miles had passed and I reached Blackburn bothy. This could be easily missed coming from the south as a small path goes back westward into a dell, where you can just make out the rooftop.A welcome break just at the right moment, a small rumble of thunder then stair rods of rain, just as I reached the door.
A super one room bothy with a fireplace.
Coffee and a change of clothing. I waited a while for the weather to break. It was now grey and murky. Drizzle then rain. This continued the rest of the day.
Walking down to fort Augustus seemed to go on forever, reaching the road, then small very overgrown footpaths ( legs were soaked by the undergrowth), a cemetery then the metropolis of Augustus, a real tourist trap, relentless coaches and cars drop the visitors off for a break from fort William to Inverness. A staircase of lock gates being the main entertainment, and a massive queue for the public toilets.
Loch Ness too!..
I had lunch and a charge of my phone, 14 miles (mountain miles!) I was feeling tired and very wet. I did some food shopping and made my way to the next trail.
The Great Glen Way.I do know and have seen many sections of this trail. To be short, the trail follows the Lochs and canals, but mainly logging roads. So if you like 50 plus miles of pine forest and little views, this is the trail for you!.
The forecast is rubbish for the next few days with 20+mph winds so this section has a high route or a low route. I opted for the low route. Not wanting to be blasted all night and walking in rainclouds all day.
I walked on another 4miles finding a small grassy and stoney pitch. The rain is on and I am now tucked up within the bug net listening to the birds and the rain on the tap..
18miles..
Day 7. High and lowsIt rained most of the night, which can be good as it gives an ambient and white noise effect, drowning out the nightime activity of the wildlife in the woods. So I slept well. Too well, I didn’t get up until 05:30hrs, no dawn chorus and hardly any daylight. Dark and grey, the nights are pulling in too. I quickly got packed away and was again moving at speed on a level surface. I stopped briefly for breakfast. The midges were bad.
I read somewhere they are attracted to Co2, so human breath is what they go for. Lighting a gas stove must be a beacon for a feeding frenzy. Not for my cooking, but I was the menu. Even my porridge had chocolate sprinkles, my coffee ( just normal, I ran out of cappuccinos) had midge surprise sprinkles too.
I may have burnt my lips on the hot porridge, but I did eat it in haste.
The Great Glen Way, is what I expected it to be, long straight logging trails, with the occasional teased glimpse of the Loch.
Invermoriston is a small village on a bend on the A82, easily missed, yet it has some hidden gems. A stretch of beautiful waterfalls and riverside walks. When I drive this way again I will stop here.
Another gem here and across Scotland and the UK are community shops. This small village has one and a lovely french guy Stephan runs it, so warm and welcoming. It has food and a gift shop, but for me 2 Cappuccinos and cheese and pickle sandwiches ( for later). Perfect.
A steep climb out of the village then a choice of two routes, high and low route. I chose the low, but would recommend the high route. The low route was longer. The highlight was a very small cave.
I met a lovely lady Mary Ann doing the LEJOG, a different route from mine, but good company for an hour on the long woody tracks. I will admit I have been feeling rather lonely at times, as some of my trails have been remote and not well trodden. The Great Glen Way is well used and fairly popular, so it’s not long before you bump into other walkers.My journey continued through woodlands, ancient and modern. Some parts have been deforested and looked like a battlefield, a lot of effort has been made in these areas to improve the walks, with new pathways.
I eventually reached Drumnadrochit and a very busy campsite. Shower, laundry and dryers. The rain did make an appearance but it’s been grey all day. Coop and a pizza café for me..
All tucked up in my tent, just one football has hit my tent so far, I bellowed very loudly,( I think the whole campsite heard my toastmasters call) and I may have made a small child cry.. lol
23 miles.
Day 76. Trail magic.Campsites are fun places, but for the tired walker they can be the worse place to pitch a tent. I was tired, dehydrated and had a mission to wash and clean as much as possible. The site was rammed with excited kids and campers, all on their holidays while they were there to have a good time. It’s a lovely site, good showers and facilities. Just incredibly busy. I went to bed early, had about an hour’s sleep. But all I could hear was Roby Coltrane and the Nesbit family having their holidays until 2 in the morning. Then the odd car alarm, snoring, domestics and toilets shuffling until 4.
I was up at 04:30. And walking by 05:30. Feeling jaded. But it is the holidays.
I made my way through Drumnadrochit and along the A82, until the path left the road and slowly made the way upwards.
The cult of Nessy, will continue for many years to come. It’s part of the Scottish identity and every foreign visitor is expected to visit the “museums?/phem park” visit the loch ( briefly search) then get in the car or coach to the next destination. I hope many might discover a bit more of the Highlands than just the car parks.
The path was incredibly steep, a little muddy and damp, winding it’s way up the side of the mountain.
I was blessed today with good fortune. A little way up I heard whoops and hollers of lads laughing coming down the hill at speed. I met a group of mountain bikers who had just dropped down the really steep section and met me at a set of double gates. Being me, I opened both and stood back as they flew by.
A little bloody, muddy, they cheered their kind hearted walker and dropped down the next section. I shut the gates and continued upwards. A way further I found green debris and skid marks where one of more had come off the tracks, blood too. (You’ve got to be a bit mad for this type of cycling)
For my good fortune I found a bottle of water and two bottles of Lucozade, all still sealed, although a little shaken. Finders keepers!
This section was rather hard with now nearly 30lb on my back. I reached the viewing point and died a little, drenched in sweat, even though it was only 12° and raining.Breakfast was consumed followed by a very sweet bottle of Lucas aid. Sugared and carbed I set off. This section was back on logging tracks and moorland tops. A slite glimpse of Inverness and the showers were on. 2 honesty box’s on this section, cans of drink and chocolate.
There was a long section of tarmac and a famous/infamous cafe in the woods. The rain was definitely on at this point and I decided to press on.
Still feeling jaded and the thought of doing 24miles to get clear of Inverness bridge and a wild camp, I came across a plumb spot in the Aird Woods. The viewing area previously looked so cool to camp, but just too short of a day, I had now reached 12 miles with sore legs. This spot had water, shelter and was flat.
It was only 13:00hrs but I decided to call it a day.
A peaceful afternoon. Refreshed for tomorrow, I could catch up on some sleep, for the bridge and beyond!.
Day 77. More Trail magic…There was rain on an off all night. It was a good call to stop early too. A wet afternoon and evening.
The wind was strong most of the day, the upside to this, my tent dried out rapidly in the morning, packing both the outer and inner together which was a first.
Breakfast was also served in bed, followed by two coffees. No sprinkles and no midges, the wind was too strong for their little wings! I think this is a first for Scotland.
I set off at 06:00hrs passing Mary Ann’s tent just a few hundred yards away. She is in her late sixties doing LEJOG. She has been B&Bing and doing it as light as possible, mainly because of her size and strength. She was dreading wild camping so I hope she had a good night ( sadly she doesn’t do social media).
The walk through the forest was actually rather pleasant, countless deer, an owl and what at first I thought was a large red squirrel, turned out to be a pine Marten, which hissed and chatted at me for making it jump. The descent into Inverness was rather nice, seeing glimpses of the city, rivers, estuary, then the smell of the sea. Something I hadn’t smelt for several months. From south to north, now west to east. The north sea, something I Will be seeing for the next 100+ miles.A slow walk down through suburbia and the rush hour of Saturday morning. A chance to resupply too, Lidl this time, some pastry for a snack and a pizza bread for lunch.
Someone asked me how many super noodles and pot noodles have I eaten on this trip. The answer is one pot noodle ( given to me when food was short) two super noodles, because it was the last resort.
I have eaten out as much as possible. The one thing I have had daily is NUTS salted, unsalted, dry roasted, honey roasted, Marmite, peanuts, almonds, Brazil, casu, hazel, macadamia. So gram for gram high protein and high fat. ( I may have mentioned this several times I have lost 2 stone lol)The odd wine gum ( I don’t recommend the black slug ones) and daily protein bars.
I have had a few dehydrated meals, cuppa soups, cuscus and co-op meal deals..
So as I ate my pastry I noticed two gas canisters sitting on top of the bins opposite, taking my rubbish over to the bins I was surprised to find the canisters full? Then I realised Inverness is the end of the trail and I was currently in B&B land, many foreign hikers were dumping the gas as they weren’t able to take them on the plane home.. trail magic!!
I continued around the industrial sites and headed over the bridge and the first sign for the John O’groats trail!. The bridge was rather windy! I was blown sideways twice. I made for the service area once over the bridge. The trail actually crosses the dual carriage way, probably the most dangerous part of the entire trip. I gave up trying to cross and opted for a seaside coffee on the beach at North Kessock ( no dolphins seen).I decided to do some back road walking, my remit was to get to John O’groats rather than following a purritin route.
I made it to Munlochy, stopping at a café attached to an interior design centre in an old church ( can’t recall the name, but the soup was fantastic)
I continued up to the 18 mile mark for me, as the rain started again and headed into the woods at Bellton. A nice pitch, which took a long time to find.. still strong winds and showers, but I am snug as a bug in a rug.
I will save my tic stories for tomorrow. This will be grim.
Day 78. Tractor girl.A cool morning following a rather wet and windy night. No midges to speak of, as there was still a breeze and probably too cold.
I decided on a couple of wine gums and to neck 500 ml of water as a quick start to the day. Still being grey and dark, I set off and awoke later than usual. No bums in the night so I felt very refreshed.
I set off at 06:00hrs out of the woods and started the long road walk to Culbokie. On the outskirts of the town I entered the community wood, a little confused mix of paths, but made it out the other side. A small shop, but it was shut, being early Sunday morning, then the long road down out of the village down to the Cromarty Firth bridge. A long bridge and very impressive. Again I have driven over this many times, but could get the real feel and distance on the bridge. ( It actually seemed endless, yet amazing views).
I had been blessed with good weather, an odd short shower, but not enough to put waterproofs on.
I had decided once over the bridge I would stop and have a late breakfast and coffee. Finding a lovely little beach next to the bridge with the occasional blast of sunshine.
As I sat on the beach, I was entertained by Terns and jumping Salmon or Trout. They seemed to be catching fly’s on the surface, but left the water doing so. These fish were large and made great splashes. Making me jump at first, but the regular splashing around was a great site. All these moments I will always remember.
The A9 for a Sunday was getting busier by the hour.
The next section was more road walking, sticking to the right hand side seemed a better option and a worn pathway. The views out across the water were special. Cormorants and sea birds were busy fishing and seals were floating around, probably waiting for a salmon breakfast.
Crossing the road, I made my way northwards, crossing the train track and up onto the old road which runs parallel with the A9 and the train track, then later the B 817. This was road walking up to Evanton.When hiking, you always say hello to dog walkers cyclists and joggers. I could hear a joggers footsteps coming up behind me, then a ladies voice said good morning and the conversation started.
A southerner called Lynda Potter (nee Pallant). She asked if I was doing the trail and was interested in my complete journey. When I asked how did she end up living in Scotland she answered she was a “Tractor Girl!” Moving here many years ago. ( I must stress I am from Ipswich and tractor boys/girls are Ipswich town football supporters). So what a coincidence! Ipswich born and bred, growing up in the Dales area, Northgate school too!. A small world! I later found out, despite not doing social media, she had found my page and donated to the cause.. thank you Lynda, for your time and donation..x
I sometimes get a bit blue, road walking and this lifted my spirits.
I stopped at Evanton at the Coop and had a picnic lunch on the green.
I am always looking at war memorials and it is staggering the amount of names to the lost. The normal kill rate in the UK is about 12% so to see so many names for a small village is staggering. Ipswich is 14%. The Highlands, some villages run at 25%. We owe so much to Scotland and it’s brave warriors and the generation lost.
The road walking completed I was now on cycle paths running between the road and rail line. Passing through some beautiful birch and oakwoods. Eventually I arrived at Alness, a one street town with a good selection of hardware shops, food, cafes, pubs and barbers.
My appearance has for me been a bit shabby. The beard has been necessary but now looking long and fluffy.. time to go!
I booked into a hotel and it was time to recharge power banks, laundry and for the next section below, have a good wash!.. ( I showered before the barbers!) For someone who has always cut their own hair it was a bit of a shock to have someone come at me with a cutthroat razer and hot towels!
I felt good afterwards and smelt like I was off to a nightclub lol..
15 miles.
Please do not read this next section if you are easily offended.. this is hiking talk …
Please do not 
Someone laughed at me in Devon and Cornwall for looking like an old fashioned hiker with my socks tucked in my trousers.
So here’s why. . The two counties hadn’t had much snow or subzero conditions over winter, causing a tic explosion. I collected 11 in one day. The only thing to do is a chemical cocktail. Obviously not wander through long grass ect, but these little sods were everywhere.
If they are left on for more than 2 days you can run the risk of limes. So the chemical cocktail has had Deet in, which is nasty stuff, but effective.
I have used a mixed of types, spray and cream. Legs, arms, chest and neck.
My worst area has been the arms. Using walking poles to push away vegetation, they have literally climbed the poles and up my sleeves.
The Deet works, they walk through it, latch on then die. Leaving a small splinter like feeling and a small black body hanging off. Needing to be tweezed off. Their beaks sometimes are left in.
If they are still alive they vomit what they have back in you, causing infections ( small but uncomfortable)
So it’s the season in Scotland. I have had them everywhere.
My bag of plums, I felt a prickle late at night, resulting in a midnight torch, mobile phone camera, small mirror, yoga session. A lot of swearing and a lot of hair loss!
The next worst one was in my belly button which was and still is sore..
This is the price we pay.
I check my clothes throughout the day. The sun hoody is brilliant and they are easy to spot. I spray the clothes too.
When entering the tent, being so small, every item and clothing are checked before entering.
Some areas of Scotland have been better than others..
ok that’s that, done.
Tics grrrrrrrrr
Day 79. Straight roads.I was walking by 06:00hrs, a stiff northerly breeze, making the temperature 7°. For a while I was debating to put another layer on. I normally start with a snood, hat and wicking base layer (sun hoody). About ten minutes in I am up to my walking temperature. Which for me means being hot. Hat and snood are off, unless the sun is out and the hat stays on. I am a hot walker and always feel it is strange to see people with, puffer jackets on and layers of clothes. But there again, even in the snow line up a mountain I can be seen in just a base layer, dripping in sweat. Each to their own..
So today the trail to Tain would be on the cycle route and mainly roads. There was one deviation up a hill and back which I skipped.
Some fantastic properties on route, mansions and small cottages. Then later some modern houses with views of the Cromerty Firth.In the early morning I was treated to miles of robins and wrens, feisty antics of territory and posturing. For small birds they seem to put the larger birds to shame.
A few eagles which give themselves away with pitiful squarks, yet glide around like stealth bombers, effortlessly.
What I have noticed over the past couple of days, is the arable land, if it wasn’t for the dry stone walls, I would say I was back in Suffolk. Flat land with wheat and barley.
Most of my trip have been on moors and mountain ranges with sheep and cattle.
I arrived in Tain in good time, stopping once for a coffee on the roadside.Tain is a one street town. An ancient court house, still in use. I spotted several customers waiting outside, but just a session court. An impressive building.
A chapel behind the court, an unassuming exterior yet inside a sea of military memorial plaques, from the 1800’s onwards. The stain glass was very special too.
Wanting something to eat and drink, I wandered across the road to the Scottish Pie Company. A bakers, I believe it was a chain, but some really friendly staff, humourous and helpful to the stream of tourists. Haggis pies and countless other variants. Coffee and cake, with free entertainment.
I then headed off to the bridge and the Dornock Firth. More road walking then woodland once again. Views of the north sea.
A campsite, laundry and showers at the South side of the bridge. ( A well run site with sockets, kettle and microwave for campers!)
18miles..
Day 80. The north sea.A good night’s sleep and a nice campsite. I started walking at 06:00hrs to a pink sunrise. The bridge spans the Dornoch Firth and a very busy A9. Even at 6 in the morning, cars and lorries were hurtling to work. Yet below fish were jumping, birds were marching up and down the waterline in search of food.
The sun continued to burst through the clouds and reflected on the water. Taking the noise from the traffic, this was a perfect morning.
Once crossed the trail drops from the road and joins an old coastal train track. Now a road, it skirts around the bay, through Dornoch across to the next bay north. The trail does go off through a wood, but I chose to continue on this line to Dornoch.
Dornoch is a pretty place, it even has a cathedral and a golf course. For me I was happy with the Coop and pastries. Sitting outside the castle hotel having a picnic, it was nice to see a place bustling with tourists. No tacky tourist trap, just shops and nice architecture. There is a beach just out of town. I have stayed here, many years ago. I will probably return..
I continued my route out onto the links golf course, watching other people ruin their walks, while trying to murder a small ball.
The smell of the sea, I have missed. Sea birds seem to be more vocal. Cormorants sunning themselves on the rocks while oyster catchers poked the sand on the waterline and gave the occasional burst of song.
The breeze was northerly, with a hint of seaweed, everything seemed fresh and clean. The many months of heatwaves and the smell of old sheep, now has a vigor and sharpness to the air.
The trail left the sand dunes cutting inland and onto the next bay, the stunning Loch Fleet. The route came out onto a road, which follows the southside of the bay then meets the A9. I passed Castle Skelbo. This is little more than a ruin. But in it’s day would have dominated the area, putting off any ships from entering the bay.
Opposite was a carpark and viewing area for the Loch side. I consumed a late lunch and was treated to a display of seals chasing birds and fish. Then with the hard work done, they lounged around on the rocks, to the annoyance of the sea birds.
The scenery has improved greatly, I have been a bit negative about forestry tracks and road walking, but today has been a treat.
I continued my way around the bay and up onto the A9, which wasn’t a joy. Through woodlands then back onto the Northside of the bay.
Today there seems to be more trail markers. A path next to the A9 has been strimmed most of the way, making life a bit easier. I did watch some YouTuber from a couple of years ago, where the YouTuber got covered in tics on this section. I have only flicked a couple off today, so fingers and legs crossed lol..
I continued out of the bay to the coast and sand dunes just south of Golspie, to a great wild camp spot. So will call it a day watching and listening to the seabirds and the sea crashing on the white sand..
18miles.
Day 81. Seals.A windy night on the beach and a wonderful sunrise over the sea.
I set off at 06:00hrs and had a white sandy beach of my own. The birds were busy chasing the timeline and after a mile walk I came into Golspie. A sweet one street town/village with a number of shops and pubs. I found a nice bench and had my breakfast overlooking the sea. Then a resupply for water at the coop.
I seemed to have spent over an hour there, to which I find myself clockwatching, a bad trait on my journey. It was to be a beautifully warm sunny day and I decided to take my time.
Heading out of Golspie along the coastal path, you come across one of the most elegant and Victorian castles in Scotland. It looks like something out of Harry Potter. I have never visited, but this will be on my long list.
The next wonder I came upon was a 2,000+ year old Brochs. Just a little way off the path and next to the thundering A9. I found some bike Packers who spent the night inside ( they were very respectful and were just leaving). I spent some time wandering around, then pressed on.The coastal path started to get a bit vague and overgrown, so I opted to walk on the beach.
I was treated to many groups of seals, either bobbing around or sleeping on rocks or occasionally on the beach, some scattered on my approach, others just watched the strange figure of a human with a giant growth on his back.
The next town was Brora. The old town/village is of fishermans cottages near the waterfront, then a Victorian centre near the main road, shops hotels (co-op, I promise I am not sponsored!) I stopped and had a coffee and an ice-cream at an ice cream parlour as the weather was becoming a barmy 20°+ day.
I bumped into Keiran Walshe a John O’groats to Lands Ender! , he stopped me and said “hello Andrew!,” something which shocked me!.Kieran is running most of the way, my hats off to him, it’s hard enough walking this!. He warned me of what was ahead and we both set off in opposite directions..
A lovely walk along the golf course and the heat was building. I decided it was time for a dip!
Sorry about the time lapse. I was hoping for a Daniel Craig mention, but all I got was a Benny Hill!
The path got a little tricky after the golf course and sand dunes. A section of boulder hopping alongside the train track, then more overgrown paths, so it was easier to walk on the pebbly beach.I entered Lothbeg point and a random campsite of broken old caravans and random pitches. Coming from the south be aware not to walk on the beach, use the track. There is a nudist beach, unless you really fancy it.. I didn’t have enough suntan lotion..
The campsite apparently has no drinking water, but a toilet block and is twenty pounds a night. I pushed on a few more miles and found a very nice wild camp spot.
I am now laying in my tent, washed and changed, in the evening sun.
The sea birds are all very busy. The seals are out on the rocks, as it is getting towards low tide. The seals are making moaning noises. It actually sounds like Shaun of the Dead!.
So here is some more LEJOG hiker stuff.
So over the past 3 months my body has been changing. My food intake too. The weight loss has been dramatic, but I am sure my fitness has gone through the roof.
My clothes, which consists of 3 shirts, 1 pair of shorts, 1 pair of gortex trousers, 1 pair of trousers, 3 pairs of pants, 3 pairs of socks.1 puffer ( synthetic) and an armless fleece.
My waist has shrunk rather a lot. My trousers are now far too big for me and are rather gathered up at the tops.
This has caused a few issues! For the past 3 weeks I have been getting pains in my shoulders from my rucksack? rather odd?
My rucksack was a size large and I have reset the straps down as much as I can ( osprey 58lt )
I now know what’s actually happening.. my hip belt that is meant to take the weight, is now completely done up as tight as it can go. But now I am even smaller!. It now puts most of the weight of the bag onto my shoulders!
These are things to consider on the LEJOG.
Maybe consider, different size bags and clothes.
Day 82. A good omen.A pleasant night sleep with the waves lapping at the shoreline. I was off walking at 06:00hrs, a lovely sunrise. A chorus of seabirds.
I knew today was to be different, the paths were a little overgrown, then some sections were recently cut.
The path tracked alongside the edge of the sea and most of the first section hung to the rail line. On some occasions it was easier to walk on the cobbles of the beach.
The trail then cut steeply inland crossing the A9 and climbing into the hills. ( Sometimes I am sure the people who make the trails up have daft ideas. I think it was so you could get a good view of the dock of Helmsdale. It would have been quicker to follow the path on the A9.. hey hoo..)
Helmsdale is a sleepy fishing village, a Spar, cafés and pubs. However this weekend it’s their Highland games. A busy hive of activity. I went to the Spar and the heavens opened. I hung around for half an hour for a café to open at 09:00. I bedded myself down for an hour, cooked breakfast and several coffees, while charging my phone.
The weather passed and now the sun came out, pushing the humidity up. A hot and sticky day to come.
The walk out of Helmsdale was nice, hugging the shore, but then a series of stiff climbs up to along the cliff edges, following the contours of the coast.
It was hot, the paths were a little overgrown and there were plenty of drops next to the path.
I had a break at a WW2 lookout post. ( A dead sheep inside) I chose to climb onto the roof and make a drink and dry off my tent. Great views!.Some of the paths had been cut, but most were a little overgrown. The tic situation has been bad today, due to the paths. A midge free day, with a little breeze.
The path left the coast and went over the tops, a little boggy in sections, joining an old 1790’s road. Then a drop down into a steep valley.
Another Broch, which again was well preserved. Ousdale Burn, is one hell of a drop. A steep wooden staircase, twisting it’s way down. I stumbled a couple of times with my heavy pack, being left hanging on branches like a baboon. Then a long climb back out.
The rain came on again in short heavy bursts. The seabirds were wonderful. I watched gannets plummet into the sea at great speed then come to the surface with a fish. I am not sure ( someone could tell me) I may have seen puffins?.
I have seen two small adders today, but I was lucky to see a slow worm. Slow worms are actually legless lizards, but I managed to get a picture!.
I continued along the clifftops and walked through a small abandoned village. Part of the clearances, a sad tale of evictions and thousands of Scott’s leaving for new lives abroad.Each day I see great wild camping spots and walk on by, to later find a rubbish one.
Today the weather turned, just as I found a nice flat pitch. I had only done 14 miles, but decided I would rather wake up with a fantastic view and not miss out on this spot. I was greeted by a robin over the lintel of the front door of an abandoned house, a good omen.
14 miles.
Day 83. stair rods.A wet night and a very wet morning. I had heard something wandering around the tent in the morning. It wasn’t a rat or mouse as it was persistent and not taking any notice of noise.. then as it got lighter I realised it was a couple of toads! Hopefully they ate all the slugs.
So the weather forecast was rather wrong. Rain stops at 06:00hrs, which it did, but then stair rods until 12.
Not being dressed properly I was soon soaked to the skin. Being in hope of some sunshine later.
I have had a sore throat and headache for two days now. Being away from people has been good. I noticed someone coughing and spluttering in a shop the other day and thought to myself.. no thanks!.. well thank you very much!..
I walked through the abandoned village. Someone pointed out this was the place children had to be tied to a rope, so they didn’t fall over the edge of the cliff.A monument to the men and families who left for New Zealand, Australia and Canada.
The rain was rather hard, like the terrain. Walking along the tops of the cliffs was a joy, but also rather dangerous. Wet and muddy. Some sections had been cut, yet others were waist deep. Unnerving when there a 100+ foot drop through the undergrowth.
I made it to Berridale, famous bend in the A9 and steep hill climb.
What the public don’t see is the amazing bay hidden away from the road. Coming down there was a water tap next to the path, which was rather helpful.
A rocky bridge crossing over a torrent of water , which was fun.
Then a really steep climb just below the road.
The path continues along the cliff edge. Seabirds and some memorable views followed.
The hike down to Dunbeath goes past Dunbeath castle. You don’t see the castle but am American owns it, a friend of Trump, need I say more.
A lovely fishing village with a population of about 800.
I was feeling rough so I booked into a campsite. To my shock it even had a bath!. Time to drown the tics!.
Just 12 miles today, at this rate I could be finished by Christmas!
Day 84. When you enter the sea you enter “The food chain”.A good night’s sleep, for a full campsite. This has been one of the better sites. A secret cupboard for hikers to charge power banks. Showers, even a bath!.. laundry. Kettle, microwave, even a freezer. Nice owners too. Inver campsite https://www.invercaravanpark.co.uk/
I left at 07:00hr, still not feeling my best, but it wasn’t raining.
I wandered down to the harbour and out up onto the headland.
There are toilets, overnight parking as well as a green on the seafront. There is an honesty box for donations, if you wish to camp down there. There was a tent belonging to a kayaker, who’s traveling around the coast.
So the trail was still overgrown in many parts. Some have had attention. New bridges and walkways. Loads of new stiles. The cliff are jaw droppingly stunning. Yet I would say the drops are not for the faint hearted. The paths too are very narrow and a slip could end badly.
I am also pleased to be wearing my British army gortex trousers. The stiles are ok, but most you have to clamber over barbed wire fences, so I have a few nicks and tears.
You sometimes have to climb down some revines, across a stream, then climb back out to the tops, all being steep and muddy.
A short section on the A9. I made fast progress and it went through my mind, even this would be less risky than the clifftops.
There were endless sea birds. Gannets being my favourite. Despite a horrible name, they are actually neat killing machines. The black tipped wings, are easily spotted, climbing, then the wings seem to flutter shallowly, while moving at great speed forward ,focussed on what is below. Then stopping dead in the air, wings folded back, it drives from a great height, a splash, the bird disappearing beneath the water, then a few moments later appears with a fish.
The sea is a food chain. Today despite not recording this on camera, while walking, I spotted some seals bobbing around in the water. Not unusual as I have seen hundreds along this trail. Not giving them a second thought, I heard a huge splash, looking up from the trail I saw one of the seals being pushed sideways through the water, then a black and white body with a fin rolled over it, then dived taking the seal down with it. Another small fin just for a split second appeared about 20 metres away, then disappeared. This all happened so quickly.
I walked out on a bit of a promentary to get a better look.. nothing, just a bit of an oil slick, then seagulls turned up, pulling bits out of the water.
I sat there for about 40 minutes in hope of seeing something. Nothing, I haven’t seen any seals the rest of the day. An orca, someone mentioned this yesterday. I hiked to Lybster and went to the Spar shop for supplies. I told them, I thought I’d seen a killer whale and they said it’s a regular visitor. Someone that morning had seen one. fantastic!.
This all happened at Swiney castle. The castle sits out on a promentary, sher drops either side. Just a ruin, yet magical and moody. More to come over the next few days.
So another day of slow progress, I know I am more than capable of 25mile days, but again this route is time consuming. The payback, might be the odd adrenaline rush from a slip or fall, yet the nature and the geology has been well worth it.
I have come across a few bad rubbish dumpm areas, even a car on a cliff top. It’s quite sad.
I do feel a bit ill, but today I will not forget, for a very long time.
I found a flat spot on a cliff top. The rain has visited many times today. I put the tent up at just the right time. It hasn’t stopped..
14 miles.
Day 85. Wick.I had a slight lay in this morning, there was a breeze, so no midges on the clifftop. Breakfast in bed!. Well boiling water while still in the sleeping bag. Coffee and porridge, while still being tucked up.
I started hiking at 06:30hrs, a good sleep, even though 10ft away was a 150ft drop.
I had become a little obsessed with scanning the sea for wildlife. I think I saw dolphins following a fishing boat, but it was a long way off. I think my sighting was a one off.
So the trail continued to be tricky. I hope no one brings their kids ( unless they are horrible kids!) or dog on this trail. Several times, I was reduced to holding onto a barbwire fence while walking a plank. I know I have moaned about some of the paths being overgrown, but frankly I don’t think health and safety would allow someone to strim the path unless they were tied to a rope.
One area seems to be overrun with rabbits. Holes everywhere, I managed to trip and fall over one. Luckily my arm went down another hole, so it pinned me down, rather than rolling off the edge.
A brown pants moment.I saw loads of seals today, many asleep on rocks. A mass of nesting sea birds on the cliffs, all busily returning with food.
Today I made a bit of a boob with water. I had to ration myself. Having a sour throat and a bit of a cough, I just wanted to drink. The water sources were limited, and very peaty, orange in colour and likely coming from farms and septic tanks.
On a cool day I could get away with 1.5lts during the day. Today would have been a 2.5lt walking day. ( Obviously later in the day I would use more for cooking)
As I got closer to Wick, the terrain got flatter. Most of the cliff walking, you end up with your feet being 20-40° angle. I found in Devon and Cornwall my left leg was being stretched out more than the right while walking. But now on the other side of the coast, it’s my right leg. I know it sounds odd, but it does slow you up. Now more flat walking my speed and tempo could increase.
The photos today, may seem repetitive. One cove started looking like the next. You also have to imagine that the path is on the seaward side of the fences.
A nice touch today was a set of Lewis chess pieces that had been mounted on rocks along the trail.
The sad thing today too, was whenever I wanted to whale watch or stop, the midges came out in force.
I reached the outskirts of Wick and the old cemetery. I and my fellow researcher, found two Ipswich service men being brought ashore at Wick. One man was found and repatriated to Ipswich, the other was buried in the cemetery.Today I discovered the grave and was taken aback as he is buried in the same grave as another. We have found this before, where if they were in a fire, their bodies were welded together. When researching it wasn’t clear with the grave reference. Now I know. I even shed a tear. This is the most northerly WW2 grave from Ipswich. I hope I am not the first to visit it.
Despite feeling rubbish today and the improvement in the terrain, I managed 20 miles. I have booked myself into a nice campsite for two nights, in hope I can shake this cold off.
A zero.
LEJOG PTSDI am still not in a great state, possibly man flu.( Ok, Just a cold) Joints, teeth, head, everything hurts!..I am taking a second day off.I had planned to do some videos in Wick, so I have taken this opportunity. There is an amazing heritage centre in Wick, which I have spent some time in. I am always doing military research ( which is partly why I am raising money). This has come up trumps yesterday, finding out more about the chaps who perished of the coast in WW2. I even camped a few hundred metres from the spot where a ship founded and an Ipswich man’s body was recovered.Today the rain is hammering down, my pitch at the campsite is now a large puddle, I have just dragged my tent in the rain to high ground. What joy..Over this trip I have witnessed the hard work of the farmers and the fisherman. I have had many conversations with farmers on the state of the economics of farming. Green issues seem to be at the top. We are happy to take cheap beef and lamb from South America and complain about British beef production not being green enough, yet happy to import cheap meat while they cut down rain forests to expand the meat production. This is me, a vegetarian.!The moors and mountain areas of the UK are having the sheep reduced, yet when fires happen in the Cairngorms, Wales and across the UK they say the sheep would have kept the gorse, heaver under control.For fishermen, this is still a dangerous profession.Rant over, just my observations.So life has changed a bit for me over the past 80 days.New clothes needed.Knife and fork?, no for me a spork. ( Long handle spoon with a set of fork teeth at the end).Sitting at a table to eat.. sitting and laying on the floor to eat.Laying in the sleeping bag at night wanting to go for a wee, but laying in hope for the rain to stop.Digging a hole as soon as you pitch your tent, in preparation for the following day (yes I am that efficient, although never accurate).I have been known to wear the same clothes for more than 2 days.Wet socks every day of the trip. ( Although I have 3 pairs, the same pair has been worn most days ( rinsed and washed daily).A short service was held this morning in the rain at the bins, I only have a few days left, I decided to rest the wet socks in the bin. They were great socks, Solomon’s , but they did smell, despite my cold, it was all too much for me. RIP.Wearing synthetic clothes for 80+ days. ( I do wear a mareno wool shirt for bed. A bugger to dry if washed)I look forward to cotton shirts, socks and pants!.But will miss the electrical and static storm at night while getting changed in my very small tent.Daily smearing insect repellent on my body. I am sure my skin is now 50% Deat.Being bitten by ants, tics, flies, wasps.Walking without sticks.Walking without 30lb strapped to my back.Wearing the same shoes daily.Constantly worrying about phone charge.My senses of direction has always been good. But I now can read footprints fairly accurately. Some of the trails had little foot fall, so you start to recognise people’s foot prints ahead of you and how long ago. Trail runners, it could be a jogger depending on the stride, walking boots means a day hiker. Sometimes there are people days ahead of you. Sometimes people you have met walking the same pace, you can work out whether you are ahead of them ( this is me getting up so early).Taking an hour off at lunchtime you can guarantee they will turn up.Many of the trails have been very lonely, occasionally a shop keeper or farmer would say a LEJOGER has passed through a couple of days or hours ago, which always gave me hope and inspiration to press on.I have always kept a few rules of wild camping. One very important rule, is not to cook an evening meal where you camp. This is so the wildlife don’t find the spillage and decide to chew through your tent, or find a need to be anywhere near your tent. I always check for holes and burrows. I once camped near a badgers set, not a lot of sleep was had that night.One of the best trails was the Pennine Way. Well marked and jaw dropping scenery.A big regret was not going north at Drumnadrochit and joining the Affc kintail Way. I have done this route and can highly recommend this. If you just want a short version just drive to Dog Falls and walk that section up to Morvich. The best Scotland can offer. waterfalls, loches, bothies and you can join the Cape Wrath trail.So after all this time, I may decide never to spend another night under canvas ever again!.I feel totally traumatized by the whole experience and likely to now suffer from PTSD for the rest of my life.!Piddling in bushes, eying up bowling greens to pitch a tent, digging small cat holes in the garden and sizing up rain puddles in the street to filter water.I am sure I will continue to wake up at 04:00hrs, thinking I have somewhere to go..Being looked at as if I was a tramp!Heat wave after heat wave. Yet little rain, to which I am grateful for.The next planning stage, is how the hell do I get home!
But I must say I have appreciated your company, your kind words and appreciation of this fantastic countryside and coastline. A lone journey hasn’t been less lonely.. thank you.
Day 87. Burning it up!The campsite is amazing, one of the best campsites of Scotland and possibly the trip.
Sadly two families turned up next to me and decided to party until 2 in the morning. I asked very politely 3 times, getting the music off at midnight. All very apologetic each time, but they soon reverted to shouting and messing around, drunk as lords.
My old raps, some nuts and half a loaf of stail bread I found in the bin was laid out on each tent. As I left, I counted a dozen seagulls and countless other birds all having a good feed at 05:30hrs, all flapping around in great excitement. I love birds.
I used the campsite common room for breakfast and coffee and watched the entertainment.
Setting off through the town I joined the coastal path. A stiff north wind was blowing and the rain, sometimes hard soon soaked me. In this section the cliffs are lower and the section up to the light house, a little boggy, but fairly flat.
I was soon upon castle Sinclair. Some lovely architecture, still in tack and I am sure a photo at sunset, this would be a wonderful place.
Then the slightly modern castle “Stone”. It’s nice to see scaffolding on buildings, especially when there’s work going on. A lovely home for someone.
Once off the cliffs, the path reaches the sand dunes. A short ratty area before the golf course, totally overrun with rabbits.
I made great progress along the beach. A rather deep river crossing, lucky for me the tide was out, so only up to my thighs.
The rain absolutely hammered me on the beach. I am still not out of the woods. My cold now has a bit of a temperature.I stopped at Tang Head for lunch, also seeing there are otters in the area. ( I think the rain kept them in their burrows)then the stunning Kiess Castle.
When walking you bump into people. I met Dave, ex RAF, serving during the Falklands war in the stores. He asked what charity I was doing it for and promptly gave a donation. People are so kind.
I pressed on, in sight of the next castle, but to be frank, I reached 19 miles and felt dreadful. Pitching my tent to dry it out, I decided to call it a day. Just 8 miles to go!..
I have always been inspired by others.
During and before COVID I watched a lot of you tube. I discovered life is very short having a brother die of cancer and friends destroyed by drink and drugs.
My walk has been longer than some, maybe harder and more remote. Yet it has been at my own rate, with little time limitations. The joy of leaving a busy job of 25 years, has been liberating.
A tip I would give to others, is to not follow others, we all walk at a different rate. 30 miles a day is ridiculous. 20 is more than enough. Take time to stop and enjoy the country we live in. This is all yours to enjoy. Take zero days and enjoy them.
I have done some 25+mile days, but this is about the terrain. Mountain miles are different 10-15 miles in the Cairngorms is more like 25.The eceptance of the environment. I would never hike in Scotland this time of year. Be prepared for tics and midges, they won’t kill you!.
The first 3 weeks your body has to go through changes. 10 miles a day then increase it. I have met a number of people, who thought bursting into 25 miles a day was what was expected, they got blisters and bailed out.
Blisters, everyone is different. For me the biggest game changer in the mad heat of summer, has been trail runners. Cooler and yes you get wet feet, but they dry out 10 times faster than boots.
Buy two sets of the same trail runners, one pair won’t last 800 miles.
Vaseline on the pressure points on my feet really helped.
Train with a heavier pack.
I wasn’t expecting to be carrying 3-4 liters of water. each day.
I have always been amazed at what adventurers and the armed forces had achieved against all odds. I have interviewed Japanese POWs, Korean POWs who were forced on 400 mile death marches. Falklands veterans who matched 100 miles carrying 100lb packs, weapons and ammunition. With outdated clothing and equipment. Then fight for their lives.
So a walk with state of the art equipment of 1300 miles is some little comparison.
You tube videos that have inspired:
Hounds of Howgarth
Ricky Macenzie
Hunt for the trails
Day 88. A North wind.
I awoke at 03:30hrs, laying in my warm bag, the light was coming from the east. I scanned the sea to see all the lighthouse glowing and beaming across the waters. The visibility was fairly good. I could see South Ronaldsay of the Orkneys to the North.
The sea birds were waking up too, crys of excitement to a new day.
So this was it, 8 miles left. Day 88. The last morning. How do I feel?.
I actually feel bloody awful. Coughing and sweaty. I was touched by everyone’s concern, but the nearest escape plan was the finishing point. This was a one way hike.
I had my last porridge and a lemsip, packed my gear and said my good byes to the damp grass.
This section of the trail, being on the clifftops was very boggy. Wet feet from the start. A very cold northerly wind, hat gloves, full gortex gear. I contemplated putting another layer on, not wanting to get cold. But I was soon working up a sweat on some ups and downs.I passed Bucholly castle, which in it’s day must have been stunning and a formidable fortress.
There were still some brown pants moments on the cliff tops, the path is so close to the edge at times.
Then the drop down to a sandy bay and an icy cold river crossing.
I was now on the last leg of clifftops and the Stacks of Duncansby. Jaw droppingly spectacular. You do start to take these stacks for granted, being so many of them. But these were good.
It’s funny being out in the wilds, you start seeing rubbish and footprints as soon as you near a car park at a tourist area.
As I dropped down over a ridge I spotted the islands and the rooftops of John O’groats. Cars camper vans, coaches.
The wind was now very strong up, I walked down from Duncansby Head and along the beach.
There was never going to be anyone to meet me at the finish line. But there were plenty of people at the signpost. As I walked up the steps to the crowds of tourists all taking turns for pictures, a man said,’ that’s a big bag, have you come far?. ‘
“Lands End, Cornwall”
I was quickly pushed to the front and a small clap started.
Emotional? A little. I still felt rubbish..
But how the hell did I get here?.
I am now sitting in the café with a cooked breakfast.
I have booked into the hotel and will probably have an early night. Whiskey is on the menu.
I will publish my words online, but I am still grateful for all your support.
Watch this space for my next bad idea!
Thank you for all your kind words and support over the months.
I hope I have entertained and helped anyone who plans to do this crazy adventure.
If you don’t think you are up to it, maybe just try one of the trails. It only takes one footstep!
I am currently travelling as far as Inverness by bus, then train tomorrow.
I will be learning how to walk without a backpack, sleeping in a bed, driving a car and appreciating a flushing toilet after 3-4 months in the wild!
Thank you!
Leave a Reply